Is a 70m rope useful? (Seneca, NRG, other DC-area crags)
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I live near Washington DC, and I'm contemplating a new rope. My heavy 10.5 rope has served me well for local top-roping and some trad following, but as I get into leading I want something lighter - probably in the 9.8 - 10.2 range. |
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Tim, |
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I say yes to a 70m no matter what. The ends may need to be cut at some point since they get the most wear and tear and if you need a 60m and only started with a 60m once you chop off a bit from each end (to keep the middle mark in the middle if there is one) it isn't long enough anymore. |
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I agree with evan, the only time a 70m rope would be an advantage for an average climber if you where doing slightly longer sport leads and didnt want to worry about trailing a rope for the longer than half a 60m rope rappel. go with the 60 and save yourself with a lot of hassle and weight that comes with the longer rope. |
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If you are in the habit of working routes, falling, hanging, etc, then get a 70 for sure. You can chop the ends when you get to the core and and you'll still have a 65m. You can do this 2 or 3 times per end before it will get to short for outdoor use, at which point you cut it in half and then you have two gym ropes. |
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70's rock! as far as cost 70 meter ropes are comparable to the cost of 60's check it out. you can catch a good 70 on sale at or below 200 bucks.and are you really concerned with weight? is that what is holding your climbing back? and a 70 is no harder to manage than a 60. for example, this video is me rapping with 2 60's. length has nothing to do with management. it is the operator. |
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I have a 60 and a 70 and climb at Seneca. I've never gotten in a jam with the 60 at Seneca but there are some routes where a 70 makes it easier to skip a belay and link two pitches together. Prune is one that I can think of. The first two pitches are often linked and with a 60 you can just make it but with a 70 there is no problem. I haven't tried skipping rappel stations yet on any of the common rappels but you might be able to with a 70. I missed a rap station once at Seneca in a rain storm and a 70 would have made it easier. A 70 will give you a little more length to work with in an emergency as well like if you have to lower an injured lead. Since getting to Seneca is not a long slog I think carrying a 70 there is worth it. Just skip going up the stairmaster with it by climbing Ecstacy Junior. |
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Not sure on the 60 v. 70 question. I'm still getting used to a 60 -- having climbed on 50s at Seneca for decades. |
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Couloirman wrote:I say yes to a 70m no matter what. The ends may need to be cut at some point since they get the most wear and tear and if you need a 60m and only started with a 60m once you chop off a bit from each end (to keep the middle mark in the middle if there is one) it isn't long enough anymore.+1 - the ability to trim the ends is a big plus. |
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That comes down to the question of how often you see yourself linking pitches. |
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As to diameter, Seneca is full of sharp flakes -- and at least one recent fatality was attributed to the rope being cut on a flake. So you have to think about whether the weight savings are worth it to go down to 9.8. |
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Wannabe wrote:As to diameter, Seneca is full of sharp flakes -- and at least one recent fatality was attributed to the rope being cut on a flake. So you have to think about whether the weight savings are worth it to go down to 9.8. +1 from me on that. Because I plan on leading regularly at Seneca at some point in the next couple years and I want to climb alpine stuff I just bought a set of doubles. Long rappels and more redundancy with those sharp flakes. Granted I'd probably be laughed off a sport route if somebody saw me clipping bolts with them. :)Probably, but who gives a fuck? |
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There are a couple of places where a 70m is useful at Seneca. |
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Lots of times I've been happy to have my 70. A 60 will get you down from almost everything at the NRG though. |