question about tripled runners and racking cams
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Alright so this may sound like a total noob question or maybe I am just missing something, but here is my dilemma... |
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Carry both, but why rack the alpine draws if your just going to extend all the placements. You could put a runner on one biner with a few twists but that makes them harder to use on lead. I like options myself in case I'm in an awkward position ill have a few quick draws on each side plus longer runners over the shoulder as well. Over the shoulder is easier to clean and swap at belays which saves time. |
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I rack multiple cams on 1 biner. Kind of like nuts, also depends on how many cams your taking up... |
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I used to do that ^^^^^ but stopped. It was slowing me down too much, because often I don't extend every cam. I climb harder when I'm not wasting time extending every cam and fussing with a 'biner full of cams |
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I just use and leave the extra racking biners. Makes cleaning and placing gear much faster for me. Rack cams with Nano's or Phantoms and it's hardly a weight penalty. |
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Leave the extra biner. The additional convenience and speed of being able to clip straight into the cam sling right off your harness MASSIVELY outweighs the additional weight of an extra biner in almost all scenarios. |
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I bring 4 biners each on their own short sling, like about 8 inches long. Like a quick draw but with just 1 biner. So I just grab one of those when I need to extend a cam a little bit. And I have my cams racked on their own biner. I also bring up regular quick draws for nuts. |
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I single-rack my cams and carry separate draws. Sometimes you clip directly into the cam, and when you don't, I think the extra weight of a few biners is outweighed by the speed and convenience. |
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Em Cos: Triple them twice. i.e., triple them as normal, then repeat the procedure. |
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Using some of the longer more flexible quickdraws works just as well in a lot of situations. Also if you have C4 or other cams with a loop at the end, you can just hitch a sling through the loop and use the racking biner to clip to the rope. |
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Ashley A wrote:Also if you have C4 or other cams with a loop at the end, you can just hitch a sling through the loop and use the racking biner to clip to the rope.Hmmmm....not to sure about that. I thought I had read some literature on how that was a big no no. Can someone confirm? I know that it seems right especially with what DMM is doing, but I thought there was a reason NOT to. |
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Extending cam slings write-up from BD QC Labs. |
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fossana wrote:Extending cam slings write-up from BD QC Labs. Excerpt: Therefore sling on sling method provided results 61.8% of historical averageor another way to look at it, it reduced the strength of the cam sling by almost 40%.I thought Ashley was referring to hitching the thumb loop...not the sling on the cam? I`m curious about that as well |
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Edit: Oops, link was already posted by fossana. RockinOut wrote:I thought Ashley was referring to hitching the thumb loop...not the sling on the cam? I`m curious about that as wellLike this? rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo… |
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Scott McMahon wrote: I know that it seems right especially with what DMM is doing, but I thought there was a reason NOT to.You are probably thinking of this quote Black Diamond wrote: Clipping directly into the wire loop with a carabiner can reduce the strength of the unit by up to 2 kN (450 lbf).from the Camalot instructions |
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Can always count on MP to come through like the WU... |
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There is another BD link, it describes why they double wrap the nylon sling. I don't have time to hunt it down. |
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Here's that link: Black Diamond wrote:Just sewing a loop of 11/16 SuperTape (as was used before) didnt get us to where we wanted to be strength-wise. Why? Because when the Camalot was loaded during testing, the cable pinches down, and ultimately cut the webbing at loads less than we were happy with (gunnin for 14 kN but only getting about 10 kN). Same with similar-width Spectra. |
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Edit: beaten to the punch again. |
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Luckily it is not a common occurrence, but something to be aware of is the danger if you fell and an over the shoulder sling caught on something. It is potentially deadly. It is not the greatest idea to have things slung around your neck in a dynamic situation. I read a story fairly recently about a young woman dyeing this way. I forgot if it caught on a bolt hanger or rock protrusion. |
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If you are talking about the accident at the Obelisk last year, it was a gear sling and a cam trigger caught on a knob.. what a freak accident. |