Black Canyon Link-Ups

For those who've spent time in the Black, what would be your choice for a link-up of two routes in a day? I'd need to keep it fairly mellow (5.11- and under) to do that much milage. Thanks!

My first time in The Black my partner and I did a link up of Casually Off Route and Maiden Voyage. We didn't really intend to but we finished the first and had lots of time left in the day. That was an enjoyable day. Journey Home and Leisure Route would be another pretty easy one. Two routes on the Checkerboard wall would be pretty good with more difficult terrain. I think any link up that involved the Cruise Gully would be the most enjoyable since you often go to the rim and then can go right back down pretty easily.

If I were going to try for a big link-up of some classic terrain I think I'd go for Scenic Cruise, Leisure Route, and Journey Home. It's only a handful of pitches shorter than climbing the Nose of El Cap and most of the pitches are around 5.9.

I don't know your experience in The Black or what kind of ability level you're at. So some of my suggestions might not be so good for you.

Let's see. keep'n it under 11-, Oh , How about The Flakes and Scenic Cruise in a day? Both come in at under 11-, there right across the creek from each other ,and there only between 13-15 pitches apiece.

Checkerboard Wall to Journey Home was fun
Escape Artist to Midsummer Nights Sex Comedy was also good

Really any link up requires another complete descent into the canyon. I would choose any of two of the following grade III's

Comic Relief
Escape Artist
Checkerboard Wall
Journey Home
Midsummer Nights Dream with the Sex Comedy finish

They are all very good and not as long as some of the other routes in the canyon. They are all also near the same level of difficulty in reality.

A much much harder but sweet link would be Scenic Cruise and Stoned Oven. Those are my favorite two routes there, but each is long, proud, and hard by itself.

Warm up on Tourist Route- a nice 5.9ish, 1800 foot route and then finish with a quick lap up the Scenic Cruise.
And then link up with some cold beers...

Patrick Peddy wrote:Let's see. keep'n it under 11-, Oh , How about The Flakes and Scenic Cruise in a day? Both come in at under 11-, there right across the creek from each other ,and there only between 13-15 pitches apiece.

comic to journey, not much climbing below 5.9 all day.

Patrick Peddy wrote:Let's see. keep'n it under 11-, Oh , How about The Flakes and Scenic Cruise in a day? Both come in at under 11-, there right across the creek from each other ,and there only between 13-15 pitches apiece.

I'd go with the first half of The Flakes which is where all the good rock is, then rap and you'll have your choice of Scenic Cruise if things are going well or a shorter route if time is pressing. This is assuming the tyrol is in place.

I did Journey Home to Escape Artist a couple years ago. That was a blast, and is a good link for the non-rock-star. It certainly helped that I'd done both routes previously.

I actually think Journey Home to Russian Arete would be even more fun--more mileage but shouldn't really take a whole lot longer.

I haven't done much in the Black, but a super hot day last fall inspired us to try this "triple linkup":

Checkerboard wall in the morning (shade til ~noon), then run down to the river for a swim and siesta, then ramble up Scenic Cruise just as it starts to go into the shade (maybe around 3-4pm).

-Scott

Seriously, I've always wanted to do the Cruise and Journey Home in a day. The cruise is faster than the Scenic with more comfy belay ledges.

Damnit Adam, you're killing me..