Ancient Art Bolts..Still MIA?

"The second bolt on the first bolt ladder is gone, which means you must make mandatory 5.10 moves in order to advance. This bolt really should be replaced because of the danger of decking on the ledge if you fall. Also, the first bolt on the second bolt ladder is missing as well making for a slightly more run out third pitch." -from the route page

Heading out there for 9 days and plan on gettin on Ancient Art and was wondering if the bolts had been replaced or not? Also any other beta would be appreciated

BSU_Zac wrote: Also any other beta would be appreciated

I don't know what else you're planning to climb out there, but if you stray from the trade routes in the Fishers, or if it's stormed since the last ascent, there is a piece of gear that sounds silly, but is worth considering: goggles. When belaying out there, it's easy to get about a pound and a half of fine cutler sand in the eyeballs.

Heard a rumor that Steph Davis replaced the second bolt on the bolt ladder with a glue in. Supposedly there was a pretty lengthy discussion on this through her facebook page. I have not seen this for myself though.

It shouldn't read "because of the danger of decking on the ledge if you fall" because you will most definitely deck if you fall before that third bolt, no two ways about it. Luckily when I went last fall I brought my hiking pole for the approach and we were able to use that to stick-clip that third bolt. Be prepared.

+1 for Bill's after-storm goggles suggestion ... I got so much Fisher in my eyes it was ridiculous.

Kevin Sainio wrote:Heard a rumor that Steph Davis replaced the second bolt on the bolt ladder with a glue in. Supposedly there was a pretty lengthy discussion on this through her facebook page. I have not seen this for myself though.

So i decided to ask her and here is her response
"hi! it was really cold when we wanted to replace it, but everyone agrees that a glue-in is the best thing to use (it was too cold for the glue to set).
so until it gets warm enough, I hung a long cord off bolt #3 with a quicklink, which yo...u can clip exactly where bolt #2 is missing. i hope you have fun :)"

BSU_Zac wrote: ... here is her response "hi! it was really cold when we wanted to replace it, but everyone agrees that a glue-in is the best thing to use (it was too cold for the glue to set). so until it gets warm enough, I hung a long cord off bolt #3 with a quicklink, which yo...u can clip exactly where bolt #2 is missing. i hope you have fun :)"

Cool lady. Thanks for sharing her reply.

Very cool lady indeed.