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Colorado
> Lyons
> St Vrain Canyons
> S Fork of St Vr…
> Infirmary Slabs
> Lower Infirmary Slabs
Morning Oyster
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.1 from 8
votes
Routes in Lower Infirmary Slabs
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Acts of Contrition S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Look Ma No Hands TR |
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Mentally Infirm T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Morning Oyster T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Owner Beware T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Plague Boys S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short But Sweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,526 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Cormier on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Access Issue: CLOSED - PRIVATE PROPERTY. This entire area is on private property and is closed.
Details
Per Matt B: this entire area (including Upper Infirmary Slabs) is on private property. Check USFS maps, and you'll see a rectangular chunk of private property just off the road at the beginning of Coffin Top Gulch. This unfortunately includes the beginning of the Coffintop Trail as well. As it stands, the landowner does not want climbers on his property, so these crags should be avoided.
Description
This is the easiest line so far on this formation.
Per JF M: the easiest line on the formation, this route probably isn't for a new leader at the grade. After clipping the solitary first bolt, there are some touchy moves, then it's (possibly) run out over a tricky-to-protect, shallow crack before reaching easier ground. Traverse left along the rounded shelf to the shared anchors (again, it is fairly runout).
Per JF M: the easiest line on the formation, this route probably isn't for a new leader at the grade. After clipping the solitary first bolt, there are some touchy moves, then it's (possibly) run out over a tricky-to-protect, shallow crack before reaching easier ground. Traverse left along the rounded shelf to the shared anchors (again, it is fairly runout).
Protection
Trad protection up to 2.5", the route can also be top roped from 2 bolt anchor at the top.
Per JF M: bring one draw for the sole bolt. A questionable #0 Friend (~BD #0.3 or c3 #2) and a medium offset brassie (#6 DMM) "protect" the middle section. After that, a #0.5 Friend (~BD 0.4) fits nicely into a crack before the run to the anchor. Perhaps an offset cam (Metolius blue/yellow?) could be useful in place of the #0 Friend.
Per JF M: bring one draw for the sole bolt. A questionable #0 Friend (~BD #0.3 or c3 #2) and a medium offset brassie (#6 DMM) "protect" the middle section. After that, a #0.5 Friend (~BD 0.4) fits nicely into a crack before the run to the anchor. Perhaps an offset cam (Metolius blue/yellow?) could be useful in place of the #0 Friend.
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