Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | ? Bolted by J & B Smoot 2005 |
Page Views: | 5,328 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | bsmoot on Sep 26, 2007 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1- Friction up the beautiful, sometimes slippery slab to a belay on a rib of rock.(5.8 or 5.9)
P2- Move left to a prominent curving jam crack. From the top of the crack, move right out onto the face to a bolt. Belay 60' higher (5.8)... great pitch.
P3- Traverse right 20' and up to a roof. climb over this (bolt here) and move up to a fixed belay.
P4- Climb over several roofs to the midway ledge. A short distance above is the fixed belay at a good ledge.
P5- Ascend the slab above past bolts and pins on cool featured rock to a belay below roofs.
P6- Climb up to a fixed pin. The roofs above require some cams. Once above the roofs, move up past a bolt on the left to the final belay (may be wet). Rap route.
Sometimes cold temps can make the slab feel more slick. It's possible that the Jam crack on pitch 2 is a section of the Beckey/Kor route
We named this route after the dead goat we found at the start of the climb.
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