Sampling Arizona's Finest

So a buddy and I are driving from Hueco Tanks to J-Tree and figure we must stop in a see what Arizona climbing has to offer. From what I have seen here, the Az community seems to be fairly tight-knit and super friendly. However, it does seem that there are a few potential access issues in some places. So I figured it would be best to check with the locals and get some insider info.

We are planning on staying maybe 6-7 days in Arizona if the weather continues to stay as nice as it has been the last few days. Would 2 days in Cochise (possible on the sheepshead), 2 days in Queen Creek in Lower Devil's canyon, and 2 days in Homestead be a good sampling of Arizona climbing. If not, what say you?

Sounds great to me. I have just moved here and are sampling the rock myself. Sheepshead has free camping at the trail head. Never been to queen creek or the homestead since I don;t have a 4 wheel drive.

Sounds like a great sample of AZ winter climbing! Free camping near all those places. You do NOT need 4x4 to get to Lower Devil's or anywhere in QC. You actually don't even NEED 4x4 to get to the Homestead, just high clearance. But that is NOT recommended; probably want 4x4 for the Stead. If you do not have 4x4, you can still walk in.

Hope you enjoy your stay in AZ!

Cochise, Lower Devils, and the Homestead - sounds like a pretty darn good sampling to me. This time of year, I wouldn't do it differently myself.

I would personally skip Queen Creek, especially since you'll get your sport fix at the Homestead. I was disappointed by QC, but only spent a day there. Go to Sedona and climb the classic towers!

Cochise is a must - Sheepshead is awesome

Sheepshead is very nice and also very sunny. But Days of Future Passed should not be missed. Hands down the best climb I have done in Arizona.

Also all that stuff in the Sedona area looks good to me.

Eric D wrote:I would personally skip Queen Creek, especially since you'll get your sport fix at the Homestead. I was disappointed by QC, but only spent a day there. Go to Sedona and climb the classic towers!

What area did you go to?

Lower Devils definitely has some of the best rock quality in Queen. The routes are also long.

We went to the pond area, but I have heard a lot of people say good things about Lower Devils.

Eric D wrote:We went to the pond area, but I have heard a lot of people say good things about Lower Devils.

I would recommend Sedona over QC like you did, even taking Lower Devils into account. I can pretty much guarantee the OP is going to remember The Mace, Coyote Tower, or all the "renaissance classics" they are putting up there more. That said, I have thoroughly enjoyed Queen Creek, I just don't consider it a destination crag (whatever that means). I'm not trying to get anybody's butt all hurt, that's just my personal estimation of the area I'd give to your face. Of course, Sedona may be out of the way if the OP is doing a quick sweep through. Either way, have fun on the trip, it looks like a great itinerary.

A lot depends on the route and vehicle you use. Homestead is definitely a 4x4 road. Red's mean to his truck.

Lower Devil's has Hackberry, LDC & LDE, all worth a couple days and great camping.

Sedona is worth a drive out of your way a bit. Towers and sport on gorgeous red rock.

If you stop in Cochise, what kind of routes you looking for?

I would agree, desert tower climbing beats single pitch climbing hands down, especially on a road trip.

I agree w/ Manny and Eric, Sedona is stellar and would be well worth a visit.

manuel rangel wrote:Red's mean to his truck.

That, I definitely, am not! Why would you say that? Is it because I actually use my “truck”? It rolls right up that road. I take very good care of my baby.
Last year a 4x2 that was a lot worse off than mine made it up there. But I've also seen plenty denied too. This is why I said 4x2 is not recommended.

Poor truck, when I saw it last weekend I thought it shed a tear. Lori's jeep crawls up the rough parts easily but it's a Rubicon. I stopped taking my Tacoma up that road a long time ago. Even then I had to gun it to make it. Bouncing and flailing, I felt like a noob again! I'm not as talented a driver as most (including you) so that may be my problem...or I need to buy a 4x4.

You could spend the entire time in Cochise and not regret it. With that said, I would choose Sedona over Queen Creek. QC is awesome and I love climbing there, but Sedona climbing is very special. It is hard to make recommendations for Sedona without knowing how hard ya'll want to climb, but here is a quick hit list:

5.12 Watchtower, Into the Wild (but will be way too cold this time of year)
5.11 Fischer King, Castles in the Sand
5.10 Vortex in a Can combine with the last pitch of Freedom, Skyline
5.9 Apache Route, The Mace (will be a little cold), Mars Attacks
5.8 (or less) Streaker Spire, Queen Victoria

Have fun, wear your helmet, and climb safe.

Will

Matt Bolt wrote:So a buddy and I are driving from Hueco Tanks to J-Tree and figure we must stop in a see what Arizona climbing has to offer. From what I have seen here, the Az community seems to be fairly tight-knit and super friendly. However, it does seem that there are a few potential access issues in some places. So I figured it would be best to check with the locals and get some insider info. We are planning on staying maybe 6-7 days in Arizona if the weather continues to stay as nice as it has been the last few days. Would 2 days in Cochise (possible on the sheepshead), 2 days in Queen Creek in Lower Devil's canyon, and 2 days in Homestead be a good sampling of Arizona climbing. If not, what say you?

I can't speak for the other areas, but Coshise is amazing. The Sheapshead is great if your looking for quick cruises to the top of a dome. It has an easy approach, bolted climbing for the most part, the grades are not stiff, and getting down is a breeze. My partner and I were planning to do two routes in a day on Sheapshead in December before some lady totaled our truck.

I think it would be a shame to visit Cochise without seeing the stronghold proper. If you drive 30 min past Sheapshead you'll get to the West Stronghold. You can also hike to the Rockfellow Domes from thee. East Stronghold rocks as well.

These climbs are a bit more "out there" and a bit more old school in some instances. Anything in the Rockfellow Group is great. Warpaint is also classic. To many good climbs to list.

If you're willing to drive a little furthur, Sedona is definitely worth it. If you like the enchantment of places like Cochise, then you'd LOVE Sedona.

I would also skip Queen Creek. I have never been to the Homestead, so I can't speak on that.

As already said, you could spend the whole time in Cochise and not regret it. Sedona is amazing, weather allowing.

Sedona!