Tick Rock Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 7,056 ft |
GPS: |
40.4145, -105.3783 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 18,729 total · 99/month |
Shared By: | climber76 on Nov 2, 2008 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Eds. The original poster apparently has deleted info, so the area has been reassigned & useful comment information is used here:
FAs were by A. Howard. The 160 foot climb on the long vertical seam on the right is called PTSD. The overbolting was due to some scary lead bolting. The plan is to sort the bolts out a bit at some point. I think that this line is at least 10a, if one stays out of the manky crack system to the right of the face. If you use the chaucy cracks and fins on the right, it is much easier, but you will pull boulders down on to your belayer. The next climb to the left which is rated above at 5.5 is probably 5.8 with a significant crux getting out of the offwidth seam and on to the face, and a face crux just below the anchors. There are 5 or 6 bolts on the face above. A #3 Camalot will fit near the start of the offwidth. A couple of smaller cams are needed before the offwidth. I would not recommend this for the budding 5.5 leader. It is called Barock. The next bolted line to the left is called Nervous Tic. It is 5.9. On the ledge that Barock and Nervous Tic are on, there are a number of good lines that can be toproped from trees slung with chains.
This small crag can be a pleasant escape into the sun during cooler months of the year. The approach is steep with loose rock. This may be too steep for dogs or small kids. It probably goes at 3rd class. There are a number of prickly plants along the way that seem to leave a few burrs under the skin. Work gloves or a knife can be useful to dig them out before you have to crimp on them. The rock here can require some cleaning and will on occasion crumble under you. Still, for the right types, climbing here will bring a smile to your face.
FAs were by A. Howard. The 160 foot climb on the long vertical seam on the right is called PTSD. The overbolting was due to some scary lead bolting. The plan is to sort the bolts out a bit at some point. I think that this line is at least 10a, if one stays out of the manky crack system to the right of the face. If you use the chaucy cracks and fins on the right, it is much easier, but you will pull boulders down on to your belayer. The next climb to the left which is rated above at 5.5 is probably 5.8 with a significant crux getting out of the offwidth seam and on to the face, and a face crux just below the anchors. There are 5 or 6 bolts on the face above. A #3 Camalot will fit near the start of the offwidth. A couple of smaller cams are needed before the offwidth. I would not recommend this for the budding 5.5 leader. It is called Barock. The next bolted line to the left is called Nervous Tic. It is 5.9. On the ledge that Barock and Nervous Tic are on, there are a number of good lines that can be toproped from trees slung with chains.
This small crag can be a pleasant escape into the sun during cooler months of the year. The approach is steep with loose rock. This may be too steep for dogs or small kids. It probably goes at 3rd class. There are a number of prickly plants along the way that seem to leave a few burrs under the skin. Work gloves or a knife can be useful to dig them out before you have to crimp on them. The rock here can require some cleaning and will on occasion crumble under you. Still, for the right types, climbing here will bring a smile to your face.
Getting There
The best approach is from the wide pullout just west of Mary's Bust. Blast straight up the hill. The approach is rough, but short. Probably 10 aerobic minutes.
L->R:
Per Mark Purdy, et al:
A. Ixodes, 10+, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Just One Tick Away, 9, 1p, 95', TR or R/X.
C. Tic, Tac, Toe, 8 PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.
D. Barock, 8+, 3p, bolts +/- gear.
E. Nervous Tic, 9+, 1-2p, 160', bolts.
F1. RFD, PG-13, 100', bolts and gear.
F2. Arachnophobia, 5, 1p, 105', bolts.
G. Tick Fever, 9, 1p, 90', bolts.
H. Not My Tick to Bear, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
I. PTSD, 10, 1-2p, 160', bolts.
J. Green Flash, 9, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
A. Ixodes, 10+, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Just One Tick Away, 9, 1p, 95', TR or R/X.
C. Tic, Tac, Toe, 8 PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.
D. Barock, 8+, 3p, bolts +/- gear.
E. Nervous Tic, 9+, 1-2p, 160', bolts.
F1. RFD, PG-13, 100', bolts and gear.
F2. Arachnophobia, 5, 1p, 105', bolts.
G. Tick Fever, 9, 1p, 90', bolts.
H. Not My Tick to Bear, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
I. PTSD, 10, 1-2p, 160', bolts.
J. Green Flash, 9, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
Classic Climbing Routes at Tick Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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