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Jim Amidon
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Dec 28, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2001
· Points: 850
Just my observations from the last 2 days........ Today 11:30 am.....44 degrees at the Ice Park...... The ONLY area's open for climbing are the Kids Wall at the Upper bridge....Funny enough full of adults on TR......And the School room packed to the gills.......... Seems there are more people standing around than climbing...... Yesterday morning at the Skylight Parking area.....9 vehicles..... You do the numbers......... -9F at the parking lot this morning in Eureka for Stairway and Whore House..... No traffic on Stairway, but scary looking snow slopes on and above... Whore House has been climbed recently, but the 1st pitch ice cone looks more like snow... Bring your skis........ Just what I've seen for the last 2 days......the park is super thin, SUPER and I've been coming down here since it was first opened years ago. Cold nights may make a rebound and correct things......but if your heading down......well it's your choice.....
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Kevin Craig
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Dec 29, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2002
· Points: 325
Might I add that people are setting multiple top-ropes on P1 of any Skylight area climb that can be led at anything close to WI3? Poor form, but what are folks supposed to do? Well, OK, not clog up multi-pitch routes that are typically led; just because the Ice Park is closed doesn't mean you get to turn the backcountry into your own personal Ice Park. (end of mini-rant)
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Brent Butcher
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Dec 29, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 275
Here are the future conditions for Ouray the next couple days though. Tonight Dec 28 Partly Cloudy 14° Wed Dec 29 Snow / Wind 31° 24° Thu Dec 30 Snow / Wind 23° 6° Fri Dec 31 Snow Shower 11° -7° Sat Jan 1 Sunny 15° 2° Sun Jan 2 25° 4° Mon Jan 3 26° 8°
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Jim Amidon
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Dec 29, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2001
· Points: 850
Like I said just my observations from the last 2 days......and compared to previous years......
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Ryan N
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Dec 29, 2010
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Bellingham, WA
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 195
Kevin Craig wrote:Might I add that people are setting multiple top-ropes on P1 of any Skylight area climb that can be led at anything close to WI3? Poor form, but what are folks supposed to do? Well, OK, not clog up multi-pitch routes that are typically led; just because the Ice Park is closed doesn't mean you get to turn the backcountry into your own personal Ice Park. (end of mini-rant) +1 WAR guides taking up the whole park with top ropes!! Yes it is an ice park, but let others have a chance at climbing, especially when the park isnt fully opened yet. Just becuase you have paying clients you shouldnt feel like you have special privlages above the every day climber.
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B Gilmore
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Dec 29, 2010
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AZ
· Joined Nov 2005
· Points: 1,260
FWIW, The Skylight area is not "Backcountry" and realistically is part of the Ouray Ice Park. So top-roping is fine.
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8egg.nu
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Dec 30, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 20
Ryan N wrote: +1 WAR guides taking up the whole park with top ropes!! Yes it is an ice park, but let others have a chance at climbing, especially when the park isnt fully opened yet. Just becuase you have paying clients you shouldnt feel like you have special privlages above the every day climber. part of a guides job is to be an advocate for their clients. the combination of local knowledge and practice just make them better than you at swooping in on climbs. There are often climbs in the school room that no one even realizes are there when everything is clogged they are still open for a few hours. here are some suggestions: 1. if you are comfortable solo up a climb and you will get to the anchors before the person walking up to move their rope. 2. be decisive. i can't tell you the number of times i stood in front of folks scratching their heads staring at anchors and been able to set up my top rope often with their blessing. 3. use directionals. you can often top rope a bunch of slightly different lines by putting in a screw for a directional no need to even move the rope. 4. climb with a guide and they will make damn sure YOU get all the climbing you can stand.
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Ryan N
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Dec 30, 2010
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Bellingham, WA
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 195
8egg.nu??1. if you are comfortable solo up a climb and you will get to the anchors before the person walking up to move their rope. Why would I solo a route to then set up a top rope, wouldnt that defeat the purpose of a top rope?? All I'm saying is that climbers including guides should show better ethics when they are at a crowded place.
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8egg.nu
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Dec 30, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 20
Ryan N wrote:8egg.nu??1. if you are comfortable solo up a climb and you will get to the anchors before the person walking up to move their rope. Why would I solo a route to then set up a top rope, wouldnt that defeat the purpose of a top rope?? All I'm saying is that climbers including guides should show better ethics when they are at a crowded place. Ryan see direction 3. sometimes I even set up ropes for my friends. have fun with the new tricks pal.
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Rob Miller
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Mar 3, 2011
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Golden, CO
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 0
Can anybody give the current conditions in the park? I'm trying to determine how long the ice will hold on this year. Thanks!
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Buff Johnson
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Mar 4, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2005
· Points: 1,145
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