Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: (TR) John Bachar, 1983 FL: Wolfgang Gullich, 1987
Page Views: 2,981 total · 17/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Mar 28, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

The Moonbeam crack is short and powerful. From the start, do a hard lockoff to a good, rounded hold. Then power through a few lie-back moves, eventually high-stepping to that good, rounded hold. Set up for a big move and go for the hold out left (a sloping ledge/slot). This is the crux. Finish up the widening crack to a one bolt anchor. If you're shorter (5'10" or under) this is harder than Desert Shield. A fun, stout, and powerful route.

Location Suggest change

This is the thin seem that is just right of Dimp for a Chimp on the left side of the Peyote Wall East Face (aka the Bachar Toprope Wall).

Protection Suggest change

This route is usually TR, but can be lead. Small cams (metolius #1 & #2 before the crux), offset nuts (small - medium) and for the end a #5 - #6 metolius.

Photos

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