lake tahoe area climbing in december

is this a thing that can reasonably be done? are there low-elevation, south-facing crags in the area? or is it just not realistic?

True Value Crag in Markleeville

Sugarloaf sees the most action in Winter. It's located on Highway 50 @ Kyburz.

If it's a pretty warm non windy day and there wasn't a storm recently, and you have access to a 4wd vehicle, Phantom Spires is a good spot.

Hi Jon,

Tahoe just got 2-3 feet of white stuff, so unfortunately, climbing in the direct vicinity of Tahoe is going to be a bit problematic. As Michael stated, Sugarloaf is your best bet. Its close to Tahoe, and on the bright side, there is some really great climbing at Sugarloaf. There are also some crags around the Carson/Reno area that may be worth a look, but I don't climb there, so others will have to fill you in on the details (these areas are covered in the Tahoe area climbing guide by Mike Carville...Falcon publishing and all that goes along with that).

Best.

EDIT: One other thought that I just had is that if the weather gets sunny between now and when you arrive, the Pie Shop in South Lake Tahoe may be an option. If it gets nice, the approach is relatively short and the rock faces south, making it a viable option. Again, the Pie Shop is covered in the Carville guide (as well as some routes here on MP).

thanks guys. are any of these areas is on the reno side? i'm going to be staying in reno (potentially).

True Value Crag in Markleeville</quote

Looks interesting... Short approach? Since you're the developer, any guidebook available? I'd like to know if it'd be worth trekking down in our current weather pattern from Reno, I am desperate for climbable rock.

River Rock is in Farad off 80 between Reno & Truckee. Maybe 5500ft elevation? It's west facing and often climbable in the winter after a few sunny clear days. However, if there's been any recent storm activity it can be miserably cold.

There are some really fun cracks and a few fun face problems. It's in the Falcon guide and there's also some info on here and RC.

BTW, Sugarloaf is definitely worth the drive (about 2 hrs fr Reno).

Have fun!

If you climb trad this place can be fun and is about an hour or so out of Reno.

Woodford's North Side

(forgot to add about a half hour toasty warm-up approach)

True Value has one of the easiest approaches ever but after a storm like we just had it takes about a week of sun to dry out. No guide but is definately worth the drive from reno

Hey, We lived in Tahoe through a few winters...one lasted about 13 months ('94). Somebody did a lot of bolting on the "Prison Rocks"(?) on the east side of Carson City. I remember the little book he put out, raving about the quality of the rock and comparing the "polish" to places like Tuolumne. But, it catches the sun, and you don't often see much snow over there. If you've just gotta climb.

Dan Osman was one of the guys who developed Woodford's-it isn't world class granite-but it doesn't suck either. That's just across the border south of Gardnerville NV.

Another suggestion; if the snow isn't real heavy, Phantom Spires gets great sun. Poster assumes no liability, offer not valid without proof of sanbag, use at own risk, offer will self destruct in 4...

Ha! I've just gotta tell about the Feb of '94; skiing alone in Killebrew Canyon at Heavenly, Big corn snow all day-took my rock shoes and chalkbag to the big boulder over on the NW side; what we call the "Complete Day".

kennyt wrote:True Value has one of the easiest approaches ever but after a storm like we just had it takes about a week of sun to dry out. No guide but is definately worth the drive from reno

I'm here temporarily.....lot's of snow. Just hit up Bishop on the way.

J. Albers mentioned Pie Shop. You will need to snowshoe up to the crag, but once on the lunch rock you should get some dry routes (assuming it hasn't snowed in a few days and the sun has been shining).

Also, check out Dinosaur Rock in Carson City. Some fun sport climbs on good quality rock. It gets lots of shade so pack for some cold weather!

Woodfords offers THE best climbing in the tahoe... no doubt. While the rock is not monolithic in nature, the sheer number of climable routes in the winter (100+), far surpasses any other area aty this time of year. Last week, on sunday, December 12th, there were six cars at the parking area... but we didn't see anyone, try that on a busy day at the loaf. The rock at Sugarloaf is much better than Woodfords obviously. but with only one route or two per grade, you'll run out of routes to do real quick... do yourself a favor and check it out. Bring adouble rack and one seventy meter rope and be prepared to have fun. D.K.

Woodfords offers THE best climbing in the tahoe area at this time of year... no doubt. While the rock is not monolithic in nature, the sheer number of climbable routes in the winter (100+), far surpasses any other area.

. Last week, on sunday, December 12th, there were six cars at the parking area... but we didn't see anyone, try that on a busy day at the loaf. The rock at Sugarloaf is much better than Woodfords obviously. but with only one route or two per grade, you'll run out of routes to do real quick... do yourself a favor and check it out. Bring a double rack and one seventy meter rope and be prepared to have fun. D.K.

Woodfords offers THE best climbing in the tahoe area at this time of year... no doubt. While the rock is not monolithic in nature, the sheer number of climbable routes in the winter (100+), far surpasses any other area.

. Last week, on sunday, December 12th, there were six cars at the parking area... but we didn't see anyone, try that on a busy day at the loaf. The rock at Sugarloaf is much better than Woodfords obviously. but with only one route or two per grade, you'll run out of routes to do real quick... do yourself a favor and check it out. Bring a double rack and one seventy meter rope and be prepared to have fun. D.K.

While Woodfords may have more rock I would put it on a different par with the rock quality and brilliance of the best sugarloaf and leap climbs. Still, Woodfords has that wild feeling, loads of FA potential, and is uncrowded as stated above. I seriously doubt it will ever become as popular of an area as the other Tahoe climbing areas even if access was as easy and the location was conducive to the masses. . . and perhaps that is a good thing. There is no wild west anymore but there are a few wild places left out there and I would loathe to think of a world without places like Woodfords.