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Summer road trip, NC to SanFran... suggesstions?

Original Post
Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

I know this gets asked once a week but everyone has different questions so here goes:

We'll be leaving NC sometime in the second week of Aug and I'm flying to Australia some time in the end of Sept. I guess I could fly from anywhere depending on where we decide to climb.

Looking for mainly trad, but classic sport areas are welcome. We'll be skipping the New and the Red and heading straight to CO. Areas we've talked about so far:

- Eldo
- Lumpy
- The Diamond and other climbs in RMNP
- Black Canyon
- Needles/Black Hills, SD
- Exum route on the Grand
- Devil's Tower
- Fremont Canyon
- Vedauwoo
- City of Rocks
- SLC Area (got friends there)
- Sierra
- Tuolomne and The Valley

The first thing I need help with, obviously, is narrowing the list. I think we definitely want to do some stuff in RMNP and also the Teton. I'm psyched to do some IV and V climbs. Definitely interested in back country and alpine stuff. California seems amazing. Which areas are just too hot that time of year? Remember we are from NC, and I lived in Thailand for three years!

We are on a budget, so any free/cheap camping info is helpful. Only been to Eldo, and don't know much about where to stay.

I lead easy .11's on gear and 12's on bolts. My partner is climbing at least a number grade below that so for multi-pitch areas we're looking for 10's and below.

It would be nice to camp at chill areas that still have people to talk to at night. Do a few days cragging and one or two big climbs per week (give or take), then move on to the next area. Is it worth it to buy a year pass to Natl Parks or anything of the sort? We don't often deal w/ that kind of land management here in the east so I'm not familiar.

I guess what I'm looking for is suggestions for areas, what order to go, local knowledge on camping, driving times, etc.

Thanks!!!

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

Yea I know there is no way to see even half of those areas. Just trying to narrow it down for now. I think it will depend more on the weather than anything else.

I think we'll end up spending the bulk of the time in either CO or CA.

I know Aug/Sept should be good for RMNP. What about other stuff in CO? Lumpy? Front Range stuff? The Black?

I also know that it should be a good time for the Grand.

Wasn't really planning on the valley but Tuolomne sounds great. High Sierra is good in Aug/Sept right?

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

I'll second the CA Needles. Best damn location i've climbed in yet! Also make a quick stop in Red Rocks and crank out Epinephrine.

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

Wow, what a sweet trip! At Devils Tower in the summer, you'll definitely have to chase the shade, but this is easily done. And Tensleep is worth some time, falls into the "classic sport" category you listed. You can easily hit it on the way from the Tower to the Tetons.
And if you're looking for Grade IVs, check out Death Canyon in the Tetons. Less of an alpine feel than the rest of the range, more like Yosemite. There are a bunch of routes listed in the database here and they're all pretty good.
And while you're in CA, be sure to check out the eastern Sierra cragging options. You can easily combine w/ alpine objectives as a lot of the classics have some really classic cragging on the way to/nearby the trailhead (Cardinal Pinnacle, Whitney Portal, Patricia Bowl/other Rock Creek crags). Peter Croft's book gives you a good overview of Sierra classics with great descriptions and photos. If you're leading 5.11s on gear, you're going to want to check out the Hulk for sure, particularly Positive Vibrations and Sunspot Dihedral.
Have fun! Sounds like a great trip!

Reece Henson · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 65

I know some places to camp free around boulder and estes if you want them

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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