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Elevation: 5,600 ft
GPS: 32.34696, -110.70274
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 21,595 total · 98/month
Shared By: Andy Peters on Feb 19, 2006 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Bug Spring has two walls, east and a west wall. The west wall has nine climbs, the east wall has six. Grades range 5.7 to 5.10. This area faces northwest and doesn't get sun till noon. A good place to climb in the spring, fall and winter when we have moderate temps and not too much wind. The rock is granite that is mostly solid with some small loose stuff here and there. Horizontal cracks offer lots of handholds and gear placements.

Getting There Suggest change

Option 1: Park in the small parking spaces at the entrance of Prison Camp. Walk across the street through the gated dirt area that is used for road crew machinery parking. At the far east end drop into the wash. Follow this wash till it forks. Keep to the right at the confluence, wandering in and out of the wash, following cairns along the way going up two steep seasonal waterfalls (passing them to the left. This approach involves a lot of boulder hopping when in the wash, but there are faint trails here and there along the bank that circumvent the necessity of keeping to the wash proper. Continue till you see the tallest most dominant 100 ft. tall cliff band on the right. Don't give in to the temptation to leave the drainage too soon. Allow up to 1-1/2 hours the first time you go in.

An easier, alternate approach following the contour below the ridge to the NW of the drainage avoids the water-polished boulder hopping/scrambling, the two seasonal waterfalls, and, if the stream is running, potentially wet feet. Stick with the original approach until you pass the very large cement stock tank (abandoned) on the left bank and, just beyond that, passing 2 sets of pairs of metal water pipes bridging the drainage. At that point, angle upslope heading toward a small rock outcropping and, near there, roughly follow the game trail along the contour most of the way in. Trekking poles are useful. https://www.gaiagps.com/map/?loc=14.0/-110.7095/32.3435&trackId=a53d5081-9f80-4aaf-bae9-7483be5bee17&pubLink=WSsADR9RmOlGGCoImNwm5HCZ

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bug Spring Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
It's About the Six
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
Black Lightning
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
It's About the Six
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black Lightning
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bug Spring Wall »

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