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Techy Faces at the Red?

Original Post
Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

I am looking for technical vertical to less than vertical faces (and maybe slightly overhanging) at the Red in the 11c to 12c range. I know about Super Slab, the Emerald City, and a few lines at Chica Bonita. Does anyone have other suggestions? Probably the odd ball when it comes to what most like at the Red, but I thought the Emerald City was one of the coolest walls there.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,195

Random Precision 5.11b at The Gallery

I also heard that The Gift 5.12a at Long Wall is scary tech slab to an overhang section. Never been on it personally.

Suppress the Rage 5.12a at Sunnyside isn't really slab, but it's not overhanging either. It climbs a blunt arete for 50 feet and is essentially two V4 boulder problems stacked upon one another.

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

Orange Juice 12c - Funk Rock City
Swahili Slang 12c - Motherlode
Ball Scratcher 12a - Motherlode
Soul Ram 12b/c - Eastern Sky Bridge
Hen-ry! 11b - Left Flank
Grippy Green 12a - Dark Side

Gif Zafred · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5

Random Precision is awesome! Quite sustained and very fun. The Gallery is a really good area in my opinion. There are other tech climbs there that are harder (in the range you said).

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240

I second Soul Ram; one of the best vertical faces I've been on anywhere.

Hakuna Matada at Drive-by, 12a
Skunk Love at Purgatory, hard 11b
Tecumseh's Curse, Shawnee Shelter, Muir Valley, (arete, but still vertical), 11b
Go Easy, Billy Clyde, Funk Rock, 12a
The Rifleman, Eastern Sky Bridge, 12b

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Prime Directive is 11b, but might surprise you- plus it's great so go for it. Hardcore Jollies is nearby and closer to 12a, you can finish on L'ile Au Ceil for a more typical gorge experience and a nice long pitch in all.
Al Long wall The Gift is techy... but Sam mentioned that the bolts are getting bad. Perhaps approach that with caution or make it a project to get someone in on it and restore the route! Near there a few other routes such as Are The Pies Fresh are fairly techy as well. Shucks, the slab at the base of Phantasia is too... but the route is a different experience up high.

I'll vote for the single best darn pitch at the red of the variety you are looking at to be No Place Like Home on Emerald City, so go get that one now!

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

Thanks for the suggestions. Another trip to the Emerald City is definitely on the list.

JohnWesely Wesely · · Lander · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 585
Tony B wrote: I'll vote for the single best darn pitch at the red of the variety you are looking at to be No Place Like Home on Emerald City, so go get that one now!
I thought No Place Like Home had a really cool position but the moves were not that fun.
C Scariot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 0

+1 for 'orange juice' and 'soul ram'

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

Is soul ram in the new guidebook? I only have the old, brown cover one.

Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

More votes for no place like home and random precision.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
Sam Stephens wrote:More votes for no place like home and random precision.


Yup. No Place Like Home, 5.11c, Average: 4 stars (11 votes)
Derek M · · VA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 100

All Things Considered, 11d, Military

JJNS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 531

What About Bob has some slabby to vertical routes in the range you mentioned. Zen and the Art of Masturbation at the Gallery looks good and it's just to the right of Random Precision.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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