To backclip or not to backclip
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You're not back clipped. |
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Sadly you also forgot to put your helmet on. Between that and your belayer, a fall surely would have ended badly back clipped or not. |
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Corsan wrote:Sadly you also forgot to put your helmet on.But, in two out of three of the photo's, he doesn't appear to have a head... Cheers, and, welcome to the 'proj! |
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Brian wrote:It looks like you may not be backclipped (the rope is going from the rock out) but the biner gate is facing in the wrong direction in the first photo. Remember "spine towards the line." You are traversing left and the gate is facing left. This can unclip.Cite an example. |
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Answers: |
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You are what we call a first bolt backclipper. |
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It looks like from the photos the first two bolts are useless since you would deck. No harm no foul. What climb is this? |
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England wrote:It looks like from the photos the first two bolts are useless since you would deck. No harm no foul. What climb is this?Route name is: Long Walk Off Of a Short Pier 5.9+ (Definitely not a 5.9 though, more along the lines of 5.8) NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Pier |
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All the worry if you are back clipped or not...and you're not worried about the lack of a helmet? |
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Ben Cassedy wrote: Cite an example.Ben, What do you mean cite an example? Of someone becoming unclipped or of someone else also saying this? Many climbing instruction books and websites warns against doing this. I know trad climbers who flip their bottom biner upside down as a quick fix against this. Here are a couple of examples from a quick Google search: ehow.com/how_2109215_clip-q… abc-of-rockclimbing.com/how… Brian |
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Brian wrote: Ben, What do you mean cite an example? Of someone becoming unclipped or of someone else also saying this? Many climbing instruction books and websites warns against doing this. I know trad climbers who flip their bottom biner upside down as a quick fix against this. Here are a couple of examples from a quick Google search: ehow.com/how_2109215_clip-q… abc-of-rockclimbing.com/how… BrianBrian's right, listen to him. Of lesser concern is that the gate side of the bolt biner seems to be facing the hanger's nut. It is possible, especially with wiregates, for the bolt biner to get unclipped by the bolt in this orientation, but this is something that I have never heard of actually happening in real life. |