whitehorse legde rack

im curious on the Whitehorse ledge area everything uses a standard Whitehorse rack.anyone shed some light on this for me.i wanna climb Whitehorse, but want to make sure i have everything

Hey Patrick,
Whitehorse is such an awesome cliff because of the variety of climbing styles on it from the slabs to a few awesome cracks, and the great face climbing. Because of the variety, I don't know if there is such a thing as a universal whitehorse rack. My rack is usually significantly different depending on what route I'm climbing there.
What routes are you looking at doing?
-Erik

P.S. This thread would probably be better in Eastern States Forum for future reference.

The standard rack for Whitehorse is the standard rack for almost anywhere.

- Set of your favorite cams from .5-3" with a couple smaller ones - say green/yellow/red aliens (or tcu/mastercam equivalent).
- Set of stoppers
- Pink and red tricam if you're comfortable with them.

10-12 runners (for tripled draws), 2 double length runners with lockers, cordellete, atc.

That's it.

im looking at doing standard route,and beginners route.do you have to bring cams or can you do this all on stoppers i have a set of 1-8 stoppers.

I wouldn't recommend that Patrick. For those lines I'd recommend a light rack of cams and pink, red, and brown tricams. The gear on the slabs tends to lend itself to pockets and pods... not always textbook nutcraft.

Standard route is easy and run-out, but i wouldn't consider doing it on just a half rack of nuts if you actually want to protect it. If you really don't want to buy cams or carry them up it, at least bring some hexes and small tricams. When we did it this summer, half our belays were on gear (we did take some slight variations though)

Patrick Feeney wrote:im looking at doing standard route,and beginners route.do you have to bring cams or can you do this all on stoppers i have a set of 1-8 stoppers.

If your motivation for not wanting to take a more gear is that you don't have it, it follows that you are probably just begining(totally cool, enjoy the sport). With this in mind, I'd say you will be mighty puckered by the top.

Standard and beginners are at a modest grade, but they are RUNOUT even without a sparse rack. Additionally, standard is not the type of ultra-secure crack 5.4 that you'd have to work to fall off. It's delicate, slip and you won't have a tattoo anymore climbing.

To go with 1-8 stoppers, which means only 4-8 will be usueful, you'd better be willing to solo either route.

Chris Norfolk wrote:I wouldn't recommend that Patrick. For those lines I'd recommend a light rack of cams and pink, red, and brown tricams. The gear on the slabs tends to lend itself to pockets and pods... not always textbook nutcraft.

I agree, when i lived back east and climbed up there I used mostly tricams in those colors. I have doubles and triples of them. Depending on the climb, i'd add some cams.

Jon H wrote:The standard rack for Whitehorse is the standard rack for almost anywhere. - Set of your favorite cams from .5-3" with a couple smaller ones - say green/yellow/red aliens (or tcu/mastercam equivalent). - Set of stoppers - Pink and red tricam if you're comfortable with them. 10-12 runners (for tripled draws), 2 double length runners with lockers, cordellete, atc. That's it.

+1

Evan Horvath aka Evan1984 wrote: If your motivation for not wanting to take a more gear is that you don't have it, it follows that you are probably just begining(totally cool, enjoy the sport). With this in mind, I'd say you will be mighty puckered by the top. Standard and beginners are at a modest grade, but they are RUNOUT even without a sparse rack. Additionally, standard is not the type of ultra-secure crack 5.4 that you'd have to work to fall off. It's delicate, slip and you won't have a tattoo anymore climbing. To go with 1-8 stoppers, which means only 4-8 will be usueful, you'd better be willing to solo either route.

+1

If you don't have tricams and microcams, I hope you have the calves and balls of steel.

Gear is sparse on Whitehorse whether you have an El Cap rack or nothing. First time I went up it was with nothing but a pink tri-cam. Not that I'm recommending this approach, but if you are a solid 5.7 climber you shouldn't have much trouble. There are only a few moves requiring protecting on the Standard Route and most of those moves have fixed (albeit questionable) protection nearby. Definitely bring two ropes though in case you have to bail off before topping out; otherwise you will come up short on rappel. The most difficult part is the routefinding; it's easy to meander and end up on a much steeper, blanker slab than you were hoping for.