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Standard NC Rack

Original Post
Will Copeland · · Driggs · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 25

See this under 'protection' for a lot of routes. Can anyone elaborate & clarify

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

This brand equivalent of the following usually suffices: BD Stoppers 5-13 plus a couple more random doubles; it can be comforting to have single C3s 00 & 0, though it's rare you'll place both; definitely double C3s 1 & 2 and double C4s .5, .75, 1, 2; also a single C4 #3, though this piece can often be left at home. The C4 #.4 is nice, but a bit overlapped by the .5 and C3 #2 so I have managed to do without. The guidebook usually will let you know if you need gear bigger than a #3. Some folks like tricams, and they are especially good for a couple locales. They are not super necessary most of the time. 8-10 draws of whatever length. Two or three anchor cords with lockers.

You will most often place the small to mid-sized gear. If you were trying to get away with not bringing pieces, you could probably get away a single C4 #2 and no C3 00. The rest of my list is pretty nice to have.

Based on your profile, you're probably looking at stuff in Linville Gorge. You don't really need the C3 0 or 00. Take a #4 to help with the first pitch belay station on the Daddy.

esha · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 10

yep, that pretty much nails it, i will summarize:

C4's, doubles from 0.5-2 and one #3
Metolius TCU's, full set
Set of stoppers

That will pretty much do ya right. If you plan on climbing at Laurel Knob or Whitesides, then you might want to invest in a some offset cams of some sort. And remember, it's hard to have too much gear.

Luke Alford · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 10

Tricams! And some offset small cams. These come in very handy for stuffing in the corners of flared horizontals/eyebrows.

Andrew Blease · · Bartlett, NH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 470

I have C4's .3-3, tri-cams .5-2, stoppers 1-13 and the requisite trad draws and quick draws. The pink tri-cam is my favorite.

JohnWesely Wesely · · Lander · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 585

My standard rack is cams from 00 metolius to #2 BD. Depending on the route, I may augment that with tricams or doubles in some sizes.

Victor Ortenberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

1) TCUs, lots and lots of TCUs. (Aliens are nice if you got them)
2) Camalots 2x #1 #2, 1x .75 and #3 (#4 is nice but not essential)
For the smaller sizes TCUs are much better.
3) Long runners.

John Matthew · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 0

i take "standard nc rack" to mean a good varied rack. most of nc climbing is face climbing with numerous and varied options for protection.

the only specifics i would comment on is to definitely have a #3 and #4 C4, and to have some larger sizes of passive pro to build anchors with.

Joe Virtanen · · Charlotte, NC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 241

Standard NC Rack according to Lambert and Shull:

1 set wired nuts
2 sets of 3-cam units to .5inch
2 sets of 4-cam units .5 to 3 inches
Full length runners or slings
10-12 quickdraws
Extra biners
Nut tool
Two ropes

Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70
Joe Virtanen wrote:Standard NC Rack according to Lambert and Shull: 1 set wired nuts 2 sets of 3-cam units to .5inch 2 sets of 4-cam units .5 to 3 inches Full length runners or slings 10-12 quickdraws Extra biners Nut tool Two ropes
That's similar to what I use.

For multi-pitch, I use:
Master Cams Blue and Yellow
TCUs Blue through Orange
1x C4 0.5, 0.75, 3
2x C4 1, 2
BD nuts 5-13
0.25-2 tricams

It wouldn't hurt to have doubles of the entire range of C4s from 0.5 to 3.

Two ropes are crucial at most crags.
Reece Henson · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 65

I would for sure take at least 1 or 2 pink tricams. possibly a red. there are plenty of horizontals that tricams are the only thing that go alot of the time

Joe Virtanen · · Charlotte, NC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 241

Oh yeah, definitely two ropes. That's a must if you want to get back down at most NC crags.

Darren B. · · Asheville, NC · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 95

Every time I place it I think, "Sink the pink, baby. Sink the pink." I'm never without my tricams, unless it's my red one that recently tore apart!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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