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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Black Peeler Bu…
> S Face
Western Grebe
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2.5 from 67
votes
Routes in South Face
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[Redacted] T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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[Redacted] S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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American Coot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Duck Soup to Missing Duck to Cooter to Father's Day T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fool's Paradise T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hornet, The A2 |
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Megadeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Chicken Slab S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Power Wedgie S V3 6A |
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Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Slayer T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Thirstier Than Thongs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Uglier Than Underoos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Bill Robins, Kirsten Davis, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 5,756 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Oct 15, 2004 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: On private land.
Details
The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….
Be respectful of private property.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch 1: Climb the left route on the slab just above Via Duck and directly left of Why a Duck. Bolts to a chain anchor.
Pitch 2: Head for the roof, angles around it to the west, and then slab up that face passing four bolts. Finish at an anchor below a tree.
Pitch 3: Climb up to the roof system just east of the belay station. It avoids the roof by going left and works up too and past a small bush. Here work left towards your only bolt (hidden until you are on top of it). At this point start angling right until you attain some ledges. Place your final piece and run up the 30 foot runout but easy face. Rope drag can be a problem on this pitch and is especially hard when you are runout on a slab. Use your runners. Finish at a chain anchor on a ledge.
Pitch 4: This pitch clips the lowest bolt of the east-most of the 4 bolted routes that come off this station. You can place some small to medium gear in the flake system first. Clip the bolt and continue angling right until you attain a nice layback flake that you work for 60 feet. Turn the corner and scramble the easy and dirty v-slot. (Hate those bushes!!) Finally the anchors are to your left. 2 good bolts, but whoever was replacing the bolts must have run out of hangers, as one of the bolts has the original home-made hanger on it still.
Descent: 2 double rope raps or 2 singles get you down. Beware of the bushes that WILL snag your rope as you pull it down from the second rap.
A nice route with some nice sections, however it suffers from inconsistency, a bad line, and a really ugly finish. The 3rd pitch also bites most of the way. So, having said that, there are other pitches to substitute for P3 and P4. Pitch 4 substitution: Great Grebes, Batman or Dark of the Moon.
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