11/6/2010 930 or 10 start Third Flatiron

Any individual or couple want to head up the third tomorrow morning?

This may sound peculiar.

I solo'd the third, but I am not comfortable with placing Trad protection (i.e. not safe enough for fiancée) and want to take my fiancée up tomorrow. She can certainly climb / repel the classic third route.

casey
419) 345 --240(7)

How about this, you lead/solo to each eye-bolt, set up an anchor, and belay her up. That way you really don't have to set up 'trad protection.' You just belay her up each pitch as you go. Here's a question though - if you don't think placing the trad protection is safe enough, will she be able to rappel from the top?

thanks. I have considered the eyelet to eyelet approach. I THINK TRAD is safe enough. She thinks trad is safe enough when placed by someone experienced. I grew up climbing in sportville, usa (smith rock), so I have yet to put my minimalist rack to use.

Yeah, if you do the standard east face, eyelet to eyelet is pretty safe as long as you are comfortable soloing it. Don't forget a good sling for the horn at the last belay stance before you cross over the gash!

Of course it all comes down to how safely can you solo the climb. It is only 5.4 or so, and a low angle, but a fall from a 5.4 climb can kill just as easily as a fall from a 5.14.