What is the most classic moderate trad route in california?

England wrote:Grack Crack, Glacier Point, Yosemite ????

It may quantify as a "classic" because it's old... that's it though. I think that the first pitch is junk. The second and third are okay. I don't like slabs too much either though. Just my 2¢. If you are going to the valley you can find things like Bishop's that have shorter approaches than the Apron. And who want to be around rock-slides?

The general consensus... head to the valley! Since you're looking for "classic moderate trad" You will find everything from single pitch 5.6 to 29 pitch .13d.

Lots of mentions for Matthes Crest, which is a great climb. However, I think the best thing about the climb was the setting itself rather than the climbing, alot of which was kind of mellow traversing along the top of the ridge. It almost felt more like adventure hiking than climbing. Great climb and worth doing (and I'd like to do it again), but if you're just talking about the climbing, there are definitely better routes.

Two more SoCal moderate classics--Open Book and Flower of High Rank.

Although I liked Royal Arches, Matthes Crest (love!), White Punks on Dope, Bishop's Terrace, Traveler Buttress, West Crack (but really??), Pratt's Crack (really??), Double Cross, Pope's Crack, and Regular Route on Fairview, I can't say I would call any of them "the best" classic moderate trad route in California I have personally done.

I mean, how can you compare Double Cross to Matthes Crest? etc. Some of these routes are like apples and oranges.

All I can agree with is Fat Dad -- this topic is a troll. ;)

Okay, next topic: what is the fifth most classic moderate (free) trad route in California? Hahaha

I guess I'll throw in West Crack on DAFF Dome.It is possible to do both The Reg Route on Fairview and West Crack in one day no problem.

West Ridge of Conness

Snake Dike sure was a pretty day out with no hard climbing and the best views of my life... i guess that would be my vote...

Russ Walling wrote:or the North East Buttress of Higher.... DNB?

I think the NE Butt. of Higher is the best grade IV in the park, but probably high enough on the burly scale to push it out of the moderate category for some folks.

But then again, Werner soloed past us when we were on it, so what do I know.

Aerili wrote:Although I liked Royal Arches, Matthes Crest (love!), White Punks on Dope, Bishop's Terrace, Traveler Buttress, West Crack (but really??), Pratt's Crack (really??), Double Cross, Pope's Crack, and Regular Route on Fairview, I can't say I would call any of them "the best" classic moderate trad route in California I have personally done. I mean, how can you compare Double Cross to Matthes Crest? etc. Some of these routes are like apples and oranges. All I can agree with is Fat Dad -- this topic is a troll. ;) Okay, next topic: what is the fifth most classic moderate (free) trad route in California? Hahaha

I just wanted to see if I could get anyone to do a full rope-length of offwith for the fun of it ;)

royal arches, fairview dome, snake dike, taquhitz, the astro domes jt

Royal Arches lost the classic status in my mind when I realized that I had no desire to do it again after the first time. I ended going back up with a buddy who begged me to do it with him and the whole time I wondered why I had let myself be talked back into it. It's nice for doing it once.

I personally have always really enjoyed Open Book (5.9) and Fingertrip (5.7) at Tahquitz in So. Cal. I would do those lots of times (and have). JT is perfect for the single pitch stuff although many of those routes seem to be in the love it or hate it variety.

I hear amazing things about Snake Dike (5.7) and Fairview Dome. I wonder if the East Buttress of Mt Whitney(5.7) would fit into this discussion.

Cory wrote:Double Cross (5.7): Does a jamcrack get any more classic?

It was classic until some jerk went and retro-bolted it in the interest of "safety."

Jay

Jay Tanzman wrote: It was classic until some jerk went and retro-bolted it in the interest of "safety." Jay

Oldest troll in the book

Chad F wrote: Oldest troll in the book

That's the whole point, obviously. And if you were as cool as you'd like to think you are, you'd have played along with the joke instead of spoiling it.

Jay

Snake Dike gets my vote, fun climb to an unbelieveable summit

Corrugation Corner really is THAT good. I really thought that Haystack was a memorable route as well. Bear's Reach was garbage-Lover's Leap.

West Ridge of Conness is an absolute must-do, along with Cathedral/Eichorn for Tuolumne.

+1 for Royal Arches and Bishop's Terrace in the Valley

I hear all the moderate routes on Temple Crag are excellent.

The T-bolt to Sill Traverse was AMAZING.

alpine affinity wrote:...+1 for Royal Arches and Bishop's Terrace in the Valley...

Bishop's Terrace is just super close to the road. It has a couple of stellar hand jams at the end (and often a conga line at the beginning) so it gets "classic"? Same crag, same grade, I'd take Church Bowl Lieback over it, or, at Reed's, Ejesta.

For a cool moderate with great views and a complete day's experience, I think I'd have to go with the Snake Hike crowd. There's just something about climbing the lumpy spine of an entombed rock dinosaur while peering over your shoulder to the great valley below.

For good long trad routes I'd say East Butt of Cathedral at 5.8/5.9ish A0 (if you decide to French Free the bolt ladder).

Whodunit at Tahquitz is by far the most classic (IMO) 5.9 because of
the history and the overall quality of the climbing. Every type of
climbing exists on this route and it is the "first" 5.9 in the world...check the history of the route!!!also it is a trad only area dont climb here if you arent solid at 5.9 PERIOD.

Eric Coffman wrote:Whodunit at Tahquitz is by far the most classic (IMO) 5.9 because of the history and the overall quality of the climbing. Every type of climbing exists on this route and it is the "first" 5.9 in the world...check the history of the route!!!also it is a trad only area dont climb here if you arent solid at 5.9 PERIOD.

OK, not sure if I'm feeding the troll here but the Open Book was first climbed free in 1952. Whodunit was climbed later and not freed until 1966 or '67. Not nearly as 5.9 the Open Book either.

For the record, Oliver Perry Smith was climbing unprotected 5.9 in tennis shoes at Dresden back in 1910. One bad dude.