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looking for "old guy, experienced " climber to perform knowledge dump...

Original Post
Ryan A. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 5

Looking for an experienced, alive, trad climber to absorb some knowledge, techniques, do's/dont's, etc. from. Preferably while climbing (me following) some easier moderate (5.7 or less), multi-pitch routes along the front range. Maybe in eldo (Swanson's arete, or similar), or on Lumpy?

I am a competent belayer, solid sport leader up to low 5.10, and have led trad (a couple of multi-pitch routes) up to about 5.6. Just looking to pick up as much practical, on-rock info as I can before snow flies. I have a very random work scedule that gives me every other weekend off, along with multiple weekdays off. Anybody interested in dragging along the "new guy" in the near future? Maybe this wednesday, or next monday/tuesday?

Also, I am a home-brewer, so anyone willing to put up with me for a day or two will be compensated with a couple or three six packs!

Ivan Rezucha · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 7,855

I meet all the criteria. Alive. Old (not so old). Experienced (been climbing 39 years). Very trad. Still climbing pretty hard. Like beer. I could do a day this coming weekend. Eldo or Lumpy. PM me if interested.

Parneli Jo · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 221

me2 and I'm in Fort Collins. Might be available this weekend too. Or we can arrange another time. You can post a private message to me.

Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

Old folks can be sketchy too...

England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270
Kevin Landolt wrote:Old folks can be sketchy too...
So true!!! I climb a lot with Jimmie Dunn. I really don't think of Jimmie as an, "old folk", but I now understand that that type of climber no longer exists. I wouldn't call it sketchy, more like bold beyond belief. I also spend quite of bit of time just hanging out with Jimmie, and love hearing all of the stories about the desert towers he FA'ed. I've never learned much from Jimmie about climbing other than how to REALLY run things out. Now that's the old school way of climbing, so be prepared for that.

Edit: I was bummed that there wasn't more info., and pictures of Jimmie in the new, "Desert Towers" book by Steve Crusher since he was a big part of that scene.
Jim Gloeckler · · Denver, Colo. · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 25

I would vouch for Ivan although I've never met him. Just read some of his contributions....enough said.

erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355

I'm looking for a older, more experienced woman for.. or wait, never mind.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Ivan rocks! I've only climbed with him once years ago, but it was memorable. I think he still has one of those professions where he is able to climb mid-week, thus his ongoing need to meet partners.

Paul Rezucha · · Alameda · Joined Mar 2003 · Points: 1,765

Climbed with Ivan a few times over the years (38 1/2) and there is no one I trust more. Period!

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
England wrote: So true!!! I climb a lot with Jimmie Dunn. I really don't think of Jimmie as an, "old folk", but I now understand that that type of climber no longer exists. I wouldn't call it sketchy, more like bold beyond belief. I also spend quite of bit of time just hanging out with Jimmie, and love hearing all of the stories about the desert towers he FA'ed. I've never learned much from Jimmie about climbing other than how to REALLY run things out. Now that's the old school way of climbing, so be prepared for that. Edit: I was bummed that there wasn't more info., and pictures of Jimmie in the new, "Desert Towers" book by Steve Crusher since he was a big part of that scene.
Totally true. I "admire" Henry Barber, Jimmie, Layton, Royal etc. etc. but man they were BOLD!! I mean nothing but pitons and bongs, crappy ropes and harnesses and boots!! And they were climbing harder than me into unknown territory. It just amazes me of their mental capabilities.
rob.calm · · Loveland, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 630

Well, I certainly meet the criterion of old. I’ve got kids that I believe are older than Ivan. Anyway, I live in Loveland and am mostly free on weekdays. Next Monday looks open. I’ll send you a PM. Instead of free beer, I’ll settle for your carrying more of the gear.

For the past couple of months I’ve been mostly climbing at Vedauwoo where some friends and I have developed an area:
Old Folks' Wall

Vedauwoo is a great place to learn trad climbing but it’s started to get cold and windy there. Time to start going south again.

Cheers,
Rob.calm

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Saw you presentation at Neptune's Rob...I love the use of the "Log Bro". Classic.

Ryan A. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 5

Thanks for all the quick replies! More offers than my free time will allow in the next couple of weeks actually, but looking forward to meeting up with as many of you as I can...

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
erikwellborn wrote:I'm looking for a older, more experienced woman for.. or wait, never mind.
+1 Main goal for old climbers too, but then again we fail to admit we are old most of the time.
Clifford Mallory · · Casper WY · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 25

beer? I like beer ?

Ryan A. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 5
Clifford Mallory wrote:beer?
Otherwise known as the nectar of the hardman gods.
Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255
caverryan wrote: Otherwise known as the nectar of the hardman gods.
I was under the impression that only PBR and Schlitz were nectar of the hardman gods. Am I off?
erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355
caverryan wrote: Otherwise known as the nectar of the hardman gods.
Or, Top shelf margs and single-malt scotch. Depending upon the climb..
ssimonson09 · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
erikwellborn wrote: Or, Top shelf margs and single-malt scotch. Depending upon the climb..
Bourbon works as well.

I'll throw myself into the ring as well, I live in Fort Collins and have been climbing trad for about 2 and a half years now. Did a pretty decent bit of multi-pitch this summer up in Estes. Can climb 5.8 here, would like to start pushing that sooner or later. I'm free most weekends, but my weekdays are pretty busy, so if you have a free weekend and want to go up to Greyrock, Lumpy (if it's a good weather window), or down to Eldo, I'd be down. Same goes for anybody else out there, it's always good to have a good pool of partners in my opinion.

-Steve
England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270
erikwellborn wrote: Or, Top shelf margs and single-malt scotch. Depending upon the climb..
Nice!
Ryan A. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 5
erikwellborn wrote: Or, Top shelf margs and single-malt scotch. Depending upon the climb..
Excellent. Bottom-shelf margs (dried lemonade mix and tequila in a nalgene) do well in a pinch too...
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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