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All Locations >
Oklahoma
> Wichita Mountai…
> Charon's Gardens
> Lost Dome Region
> Lost Dome Main Area
Last Rites
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 9
votes
Routes in Lost Dome Main Area
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500 Roses S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Baptists on the Rampage S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Blades of Steel S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Come and Get Your Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crack a Lo Lo T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dance Hall Girls T A3 |
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Drop Dead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dutchmen, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Fear of the Right T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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For A Rocker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Gong Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hand Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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La segunda esquina T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Last Rites T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lost Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost My Religion T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Made in the Shade S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Not So Dirty Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Papa Was a Rolling Stone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rap Bolters from Hell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Show Stopper TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slightly Lost T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slime of the Century S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Steep Show T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sugar Momma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thankful Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Turkey Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | F.A. Keith Egan, Marc Johnston (1981) |
| Page Views: | 1,574 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel S on Feb 6, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon
Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
The route has two cruxes that stump most people (that I've climbed with). First is getting onto the steeply sloping ramp just after starting the climb. You basically have to slither yourself onto it until you grab a great hold, otherwise be spit off. The second crux is the mantel move off the horn that forms a small roof (that is protected by slinging the horn). Blow this mantel and find yourself falling backwards and knocking your head on the ramp below. The rest of the climb is strait forward consisting of moderate crack climbing with some lay-back moves and a short chimney section to top out. The route protects really well with the exception of the mantle move where you whish you could put a piece above you.
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