Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Tim Mutch, 1954
Page Views: 2,964 total · 13/month
Shared By: Adam Catalano on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

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Description Suggest change

This is a good route to try on a busy weekend day when all the popular routes have waiting lines.

Start 150' right of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress at two short left-facing corners capped at 10' by an overhang. This is 25' left of Brave Valkyrie, about a 10-minute walk from Uberfall.

P1: Starts with a little overhang 10' up (big cam). From there, head for the left-facing corner, then up a runout face and generally left to a belay ledge. 5.5, 90'.

Variation: after the left-facing corner, meander right to belay on a ledge, aiming for the second pitch of Brave Valkyrie which climbs the pretty face above at 5.6.

P2: Negotiate around right-facing flakes to the GT Ledge. 5.5, 90'.

P3: 30' and not worth it.

This climb isn't done all that often, so it has some grass on the bigger ledges and lichen here and there. Some flakes are a bit thin, so climb gently.

Protection Suggest change

Can be a bit runout in sections. I placed mostly cams in horizontals and avoided placing pro behind flakes. Best to have two ropes to rappel from the GT ledge; there are sub-optimal intermediate anchors.

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