|Comments on Photo||Add Comment|
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 4, 2015
some advice for folks intending to lead this pitch: the nice-looking crack 50ish feet above the pictured climber is the wide section at the top of the Quick Death crack. as you can see in the photo, the whole left side of the pillar is detached from the rest of the cliff and it sounded hollow when i placed a cam in it. in addition to that, the inside of the crack is quite slick and it is possible (though i wouldn't go so far as to say probable) that if you fell trying to pull the lip above the crack your gear might pull.
what i did to feel safer was to sling the top left side of the pillar in addition to placing a #4 camalot as high in the crack as i could. it would still be a nasty and unrecommended fall but at least you can pull the move without worrying about your gear popping.