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The Legendary Nuclear Bomb
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in Sun Wall
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Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Bouffant Curl T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Le Crimp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Mainline Express T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Predator T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prey T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Psychedelic Delusions of The Digital Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 |
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Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Titties and Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Toxic Wasteland T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Way Rad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Jeep Gaskin, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuerrman, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 4,732 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew McDowell on Aug 23, 2010 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
The best water groove ever. With TCU's (which they didn't have on the first ascent) the route may or may not deserve a solid R rating depending on how brittle your bones are / how lucky you are, but for all the cruxes you are a above your pro making for commiting climbing. The final crux bulge is a potential ankle breaker due to the fall onto a 65 or 70 degree slab from a vertical bulge when your feet are about 6 feet above gear.
P1: Climb steep groove past numerous horizontals to an easy roof, then climb groove past 3 bolts to a gear belay with hand sized cams in a horizontal (5.10d) - I found the crux of this pitch to be the hardest single move on the climb
P2: Climb groove and then the face left of the groove past 3 bolts. After the 3rd bolt a small hybrid alien or probably a small TCU in a horizontal in the groove protects what used to have been a runout to the 2 bolt anchor. (5.11a)
P3: Climb sustained laurel knob style stemming groove past 2 bolts until the terrain eases. continue up to a steep bulge protected by gear in a horizontal at the base. Though you are not especially far above your gear, this bulge might be the most dangerous part of the climb due to the slick rock and potential ankle breaking / ankle spraining fall. The bomb flake is no longer there. Continue up to 2 bolt anchor to the left atop which is part of prey (the route you rappel to get down) (5.11b)
P4: continue up easy groove to top (5.8)
P1: Climb steep groove past numerous horizontals to an easy roof, then climb groove past 3 bolts to a gear belay with hand sized cams in a horizontal (5.10d) - I found the crux of this pitch to be the hardest single move on the climb
P2: Climb groove and then the face left of the groove past 3 bolts. After the 3rd bolt a small hybrid alien or probably a small TCU in a horizontal in the groove protects what used to have been a runout to the 2 bolt anchor. (5.11a)
P3: Climb sustained laurel knob style stemming groove past 2 bolts until the terrain eases. continue up to a steep bulge protected by gear in a horizontal at the base. Though you are not especially far above your gear, this bulge might be the most dangerous part of the climb due to the slick rock and potential ankle breaking / ankle spraining fall. The bomb flake is no longer there. Continue up to 2 bolt anchor to the left atop which is part of prey (the route you rappel to get down) (5.11b)
P4: continue up easy groove to top (5.8)
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