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Splinted and Screwed
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.9 from 8
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Routes in Trundle Wall
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Splinted and Screwed T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Top Flite T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Whiskey Rat, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Matt Lawry, Lee Brinckerhoff, Kevin Conner, Chris Gustafson |
| Page Views: | 2,273 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Lawry on Aug 13, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Pitch 1 (5.10+) - Climb through incut edges and sidepulls past a bolt and gear placement (small), then ascend the slightly overhanging wall. Big holds and bad feet characterize the crux around the third bolt (5.10+), followed by more jugs and a mantle to the belay ledge. Two bolt belay.
Pitch 2 (5.12a) - Cruise through the slab portion of the dihedral past gear and two bolts to a hands free rest before the overhanging corner. Stem and layback through the increasingly difficult dihedral while paying attention to subtle gear opportunities. When the crack peters out, clip a bolt out left and find your way through sequential incut crimps and sidepulls (5.12a). Watch out for the pump-factor as you climb the last 10 feet through slopers and a final mantle guarding the belay ledge. Bolt and gear belay.
Pitch 3 (5.11) - After an initial struggle, float through the right facing corner which gobbles up gear. Progress through an acute dihedral with a thin seam requiring micronuts (DMM Offset Brassies worked very well). Clip a pin, then ascend the overhanging and well featured headwall. Be alert of loose rock - quality of rock is not quite as exceptional as the first two pitches. Amidst plugging gear and clipping bolts, save some juice for the final throws to the summit (5.11).
Pitch 2 (5.12a) - Cruise through the slab portion of the dihedral past gear and two bolts to a hands free rest before the overhanging corner. Stem and layback through the increasingly difficult dihedral while paying attention to subtle gear opportunities. When the crack peters out, clip a bolt out left and find your way through sequential incut crimps and sidepulls (5.12a). Watch out for the pump-factor as you climb the last 10 feet through slopers and a final mantle guarding the belay ledge. Bolt and gear belay.
Pitch 3 (5.11) - After an initial struggle, float through the right facing corner which gobbles up gear. Progress through an acute dihedral with a thin seam requiring micronuts (DMM Offset Brassies worked very well). Clip a pin, then ascend the overhanging and well featured headwall. Be alert of loose rock - quality of rock is not quite as exceptional as the first two pitches. Amidst plugging gear and clipping bolts, save some juice for the final throws to the summit (5.11).
Location
Splinted And Screwed (SAS) is 25 feet or so northeast of Top Flite (TF).
From the crest hike down the La Luz and take the trail headed towards the Tram. After passing Echo Canyon the trail will make a distinct turn from South to East. Continue beyond this turn for another 100 feet, then head south along a game trail to gain access to the top of Trundle wall. Two options are available to gain access to the top of SAS or TF *follow cairns down a steep hill 100 yards northeast of the ridgeline prow and traverse across ledges to the south, or rappel off the prow of the ridgeline directly above the route via a two bolt rappel (30 meters). Because of fragile soil and dubious path-finding, the rappel is recommended.
Once on the broad ledge above the actual route, rappel off the anchors with mad rock hangers. Make sure to knot the ends, with a 70m rope you will have but a few feet to spare at the bottom of the first rappel! On the second rappel, pre-clipping a 24 inch sling on the first bolt you encounter is recommended.
From the crest hike down the La Luz and take the trail headed towards the Tram. After passing Echo Canyon the trail will make a distinct turn from South to East. Continue beyond this turn for another 100 feet, then head south along a game trail to gain access to the top of Trundle wall. Two options are available to gain access to the top of SAS or TF *follow cairns down a steep hill 100 yards northeast of the ridgeline prow and traverse across ledges to the south, or rappel off the prow of the ridgeline directly above the route via a two bolt rappel (30 meters). Because of fragile soil and dubious path-finding, the rappel is recommended.
Once on the broad ledge above the actual route, rappel off the anchors with mad rock hangers. Make sure to knot the ends, with a 70m rope you will have but a few feet to spare at the bottom of the first rappel! On the second rappel, pre-clipping a 24 inch sling on the first bolt you encounter is recommended.
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