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Half ropes, same manufacturer?

Original Post
Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

Silly question, but I recently bought a pair of half ropes from someone and now need to replace one. They claimed they'd only been used a few times and had a picture. I bought them on here and figured "Hey, this is a pretty good community, no one is out to screw anyone over." Well I got the ropes and one is perfect the others sheath is shredded about 1/3 of the way from one end with visible core.

So my question is, am I going to be fine with an 8.6 Bluewater and an 8.4 Sterling? I figure it's fine but wanted to ask around anyway before I bought a new rope.

Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30

Sam,

You'll be fine if you clip alternatingly. If you clip tandem, then one of the ropes will bear more of the load because they won't have identical stretch/impact characteristics.

That said, I think it is much better to try and get another identical cord.

If this dude misrepresented what he sold, I'd give him a chance to fix it. If he doesn't make right, I think you are within your right to air your grievance publicly.

Tparis · · Pottersville,New York · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 270

generally half ropes are best bought as a pair. Even if you do get a replacement that is the exact same rope from the same manufacturer the old and the new will have different amounts of elongation. I would also question the "good" rope's reliability based on the condition of the other rope. Bottom line is: don't buy used ropes.

Bud Martin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 380
Sam Stephens wrote:That being said I don't know how much I want to go after the seller, what good is it really going to do?
If you let their name out it would give the rest of us a heads up.
Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

The rope in question.

messed up sheath

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I have a general "distrust" of people that join MP just to sell stuff or complain.

Yeah maybe she's 16, but she's got a whole lot of new and expensive gear to sell. Just sayin...

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Most of the above info in not accurate. Ropes having different properties/elongations is not relevant if you are using half/double techniques. That is, clipping ropes separately. Different properties only matters if you are using twin techniques. That is, clipping both ropes to every piece.

So, if you buy a new rope that is rated for half/double than get whatever you want. Never clip both ropes to a single piece of gear if they are not rated as twins.

Half/double rope vs twin ropes are quite misunderstood. To confuse you more, recently some ropes are rated for twin and half/double techniques.

In short, twin ropes must be clipped to every piece... and the ropes should have like properties.

Half/double ropes should not be clipped to a single piece... and the ropes do not have to have like properties.

Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

Thanks Greg. I'll probably just wait til I need to use doubles again before I buy another to go with this one.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
Greg D wrote:Most of the above info in not accurate. Ropes having different properties/elongations is not relevant if you are using half/double techniques. That is, clipping ropes separately. Different properties only matters if you are using twin techniques. That is, clipping both ropes to every piece. So, if you buy a new rope that is rated for half/double than get whatever you want. Never clip both ropes to a single piece of gear if they are not rated as twins. Half/double rope vs twin ropes are quite misunderstood. To confuse you more, recently some ropes are rated for twin and half/double techniques. In short, twin ropes must be clipped to every piece... and the ropes should have like properties. Half/double ropes should not be clipped to a single piece... and the ropes do not have to have like properties.
Greg is correct.

On long routes that require two ropes I take a single rope and a 8.3 half rope (because I don't have enough money to buy three ropes). I clip them alternately or left pro on one rope and right pro on the other rope (half/double rope technique). I think it's kinda dumb to be trailing a perfectly good rope and not using it to lead, so even if we have to go up w/ two single ropes for some reason, I still like to use them as doubles.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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