Scarpa Techno stretch?

I've ALMOST convinced myself to get a pair of Technos. I need something that can climb slab, cracks, steep face... everything. I've always used larger Anasazis for all day stuff but from what I can tell the Techno will be what I'm looking for.

A 44 is really comfy in the store and probably what I need, but I'm just not used to having my toes lay flat and am worried that I should go w/ a 43.5. They are tighter with my toes not completely flat but certainly not too small.

How much do these shoes stretch?

I am 4 months in on mine, climb everything in them (cracks, slabby granite, and a lot of Smith nubbins). They seem to have hardly stretched at all, feeling every bit as tight as the day I bought them with a little tightening of the laces. They have also held up incredibly well, having climbed in them 4-5 days a week.

If you are looking for shoes that are comfy and can climb anything except overhangs, get these.

i have the technos and i love them! i bought them with my toes fairly crammed but now they have stretched out enough to be very comfortable...even wearing them all day for multi-pitch stuff feels good. i would recommend buying them a half size tighter than you would like them to be..but everybody's feet are different and so will the stretch.

I've had them for two years, as my trad/alpine shoe. They stretch quite a bit, fit 'em tight. Now they're comfortable for all-day alpine routes, which is just where I want 'em.

So it's 44 - 1 and 43.5 - 2

I'm poor! I can't afford to screw it up!

I've had mine about 7 months and climb in them 3-4 times a week. I don't think they've stretched at all.

I think they barely stretch at all. I just bough a brand new pair of the same size so that I can send out my old pair to get re-soled. I can hardly tell a difference in the way the new pair feels vs. the old pair. For what it’s worth, I size my shoes where they are uncomfortable after a few hours but not to the point where I need to take them off between climbs.

Ryan,

I've had about 4 or 5 pair of these shoes and they work very well for the climbing here in NC, as well as most other places. However, a very peculiar issue that I encountered with the last pair is that they ended up fitting wide after I broke them in, even though they were exactly the same size that I had previously worn; they really lost their edging capablilities, and I mean to the point at which it seemed as if I were wearing tennis shoes... That was something new to me, and up to that point they had always fit really well. Makes me wonder if it was a bad batch that was maybe cut a bit too wide or something...

To answer your question though, in the past I fit mine to where they are fairly uncomfortable at first (tolerable for about one pitch) and they quickly stretch into an all day comfort shoe. These shoes stretch much less than the mythos.

nbrown wrote:Ryan, I've had about 4 or 5 pair of these shoes and they work very well for the climbing here in NC, as well as most other places. However, a very peculiar issue that I encountered with the last pair is that they ended up fitting wide after I broke them in, even though they were exactly the same size that I had previously worn; they really lost their edging capablilities, and I mean to the point at which it seemed as if I were wearing tennis shoes... That was something new to me, and up to that point they had always fit really well. Makes me wonder if it was a bad batch that was maybe cut a bit too wide or something... To answer your question though, in the past I fit mine to where they are fairly uncomfortable at first (tolerable for about one pitch) and they quickly stretch into an all day comfort shoe. These shoes stretch much less than the mythos.

This is such a difficult question, one that I've been looking at as far as the LS mythos go...Some people say 2 sizes, some not at all. For all day tradies have had decent luck with all shoes only going down 1 full size, but it's a crap shoot.

The part I don't get is where people say they stretch to much to climb well. It would stand to reason that the shoe would never strech more than the parameters of your foot size??

nbrown wrote:Ryan, I've had about 4 or 5 pair of these shoes and they work very well for the climbing here in NC, as well as most other places. However, a very peculiar issue that I encountered with the last pair is that they ended up fitting wide after I broke them in, even though they were exactly the same size that I had previously worn; they really lost their edging capablilities, and I mean to the point at which it seemed as if I were wearing tennis shoes... That was something new to me, and up to that point they had always fit really well. Makes me wonder if it was a bad batch that was maybe cut a bit too wide or something... To answer your question though, in the past I fit mine to where they are fairly uncomfortable at first (tolerable for about one pitch) and they quickly stretch into an all day comfort shoe. These shoes stretch much less than the mythos.

That's good to hear. I will be breaking them in on a NC road trip (maybe you want to meet me and climb one day) and then wearing them out in Yosemite. I don't know how much slab I'll be doing but I will probably end up at LK once and will be doing Snake Dyke maybe, I guess I could wear approach shoes for that though? I'll also be at the Bald, the Glass and Whitesides this winter.

I do leisurely days at Shortoff (cigarettes and pictures at every belay) w/o taking off my sport shoes so if it's vertical or steeper I'm pretty tolerant but it's just not possible to do low angle stuff in small shoes (I've tried). I'm still not sure which size to get. My toes are bent in the 43.5 and if they stay that way I don't think they'll be as good for cracks or lower angle stuff. However the 44's are so comfy in the store that if they stretch even a little they'll be no good for harder face climbs.

I've climbed in the 44's once and could do techy face V4 or something. This was when they were brand new though. If I go by your experience (which seems to be more than anyone else I can find) then the 43.5's will turn out to be perfect.

We'll see. I might end up spending the extra bucks to get them from REI so I can swap 'em out if I have to but I really don't want to do that.

Anyways I was serious about meeting up. I'll send you a PM.

Thanks everyone... hope to hear more before I go buy them!

My feet measure 9.5 US which is ~42.5 EU. I initially bought the technos in 41.5, thinking they would stretch a bit, however that didn't seem to happen. The lorica panels don't seem to allow for much stretch. So I exchanged them for 42's, which seems about right.

Garrett Gladden wrote:I am 4 months in on mine, climb everything in them (cracks, slabby granite, and a lot of Smith nubbins). They seem to have hardly stretched at all, feeling every bit as tight as the day I bought them with a little tightening of the laces. They have also held up incredibly well, having climbed in them 4-5 days a week. If you are looking for shoes that are comfy and can climb anything except overhangs, get these.

wow i only used my technos in the lower gorge, no way I would want them for micro edging

redlude97 wrote: wow i only used my technos in the lower gorge, no way I would want them for micro edging

Thanks for the help.

Get the 43.5. While tight at first, the stretch out enough to make them comfy for all day climbing, but can still cinch down enough for aggressive climbing.

+1 on the 43.5 - they do stretch. Not nearly as much as a Mythos, but they do stretch. I bought 45's, which is my street shoe/mountain boot size, and they were OK for a while; now they're my alpine shoes that I can wear a sock liner with. Replaced 'em with 44.5s for cragging and they were perfect after several months of gym and crag climbing; currently breaking in a new pair of 44.5s.

redlude97 wrote: wow i only used my technos in the lower gorge, no way I would want them for micro edging

You are right about that. I should clarify that Smith nubbins are these small chicken heads that pop out of the volcanic tuff, and the toe on the Technos seem to eat them up.

I'm on my second well used pair, and used mythos before that. The techno's stretch about a 3/4 size or so, NOT a full size, but a little more than half. I'll admit they don't edge as well as my Muira VS's, but, they are still very high performance and A LOT more comfortable.