It's restricted to no permanent fixed protection because it's in the Pemigewasset Wilderness area. On the left central side where the trees grow lowest below the highest summit is an alcove. Everywhere to the west of this tree alcove landmark is the side of the ice flows. Just east of this feature is the section I called the 'Bow'. In the center of this wall is the crack I climbed to the midway ledge. There are several inverted V grooves features on this crag that appear 'extremely' doable. The longest ice flow section appears to be moderate rock climbing routes on bumpy rock. The granite rock quality generally is in good shape but there are the usual detached loose rocks laying around. A detached rock on the second pitch prevented me from finishing the route I was doing. On the far right central side there are diagonally inclining horizontal ledges with small trees that were climbed in the 1930's-40's I believe. I believe this because I passed a vintage pin on my trip up these ledges free soloing a climb. It's not much of a rock climb and should be avoided because of seepage above the pin (5-5). I heard that Andy Tuthill and Chris Ellms visited this crag in the late 70's or early 80's to rock climb on it. Fletcher Wilson climbed an ice route with some friends in 1980. They skied in to 13 Falls, did a climb and skied out in one day. He said it was one of the grade (WI3) flows but he had no details to which one it was.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jan 9, 2013
Dave Custer and Susan Ruff put up trad routes here. They are hard. It makes Greens or the Captain almost seem like a roadside crag.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jan 10, 2013
I put this same comment in the COMMENTs for the crag's 'general' site, but everyone seems to be commenting on this photo's site, so I repeat it here.
WOW ! Someone else went in there! Back in 1965 I "spyed" this cliff from the Bonds and took a compass bearing. I called it the "SouthWest Shoulder of Mt Garfield". The next summer ( 1966) I convinced a couple of my school climbing buddies to march in. It took all day to get to a place to camp. On 4th of July weekend 1966 we established a basecamp on the stream that flows about 1/3 to 1/2 mile from the cliff. (A BEAUTIFUL Campsite!, I can still remember the flat camping and fine pool.) A compass bearing of 26 deg. ( Mag.) brought us to the face, where we climbed a 80 ft ( +/-) chimney to a ledge. The ledge was wide. ( 2-3 feet??) A beautiful crack led upwards for ..?? 75-80 ft? THIS I free climbed and aided (mixed) to the top. No one followed, that day in Boston the temp. set a record for the hottest July day on record, at least, that's my recollection. [Maybe it was only the hottest 4th of July on record, to that time.] Most of the (soft iron) pins are probably still in place. Looking at a "blow-Up" of the photo with routes marked, I am 99% sure the four "P's" (pitons, I assume) on the right end of the mid-height ledge are from that ascent. [I think this was done "pre-Wilderness-Act", or if it was a yr or so after, rules hadn't been written yet, or at least not publicized.) It was written up in Appalachia's CLIMBs section, probably in summer of 1967 edition.