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Haus Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Haus Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Abstract Plain S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
	Burning Down the Haus S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Chainsaw T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Crystal Ball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Crystal Baller (link-up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Cut Deep S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Dance the Magic Dance V4 6B
	Dink S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Dirty Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Feet Do Not Fail Me Now S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Half and Half T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hostile Krainzover S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lichen This S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Little Haus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Little Squirt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Macho Picasso S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Napoleon’s Syndrome (submitted as Five Nine) S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Not Lichen This S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Not So Hostile Krainzover S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ol' Ball and Chain, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Proppa Toppa S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Road Rash (submitted as Flakin' Out) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Side Plate S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sky Pilot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Spine, The S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Susie Seka's Short, Yet So Seductive, Little, Flakey Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	They Call Me Shorty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Throwin' The Drool Again S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Top Soil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Torqued Blow S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Description

Haus is probably the most well known rock in Summit County. It is a locals' favorite and provides climbing anywhere from 5.7 to 5.14a. All routes at Haus Rock are bolted, and most climbs can even be set up on top rope.

Excerpted from a Pat Thompson comment: there is a guidebook for this small area. High Country Crags by Scott Astaldi and Mike Gruber. It was printed in '93, so the newer routes are not in it.

Per percious:

Backside (North side) L->R:
A. Top Soil, 10-, 1p, bolts.
B. ??, 10-, 1p, 30', bolts.
C. Side Plate, 10, 1p, bolts.
D. Napoleon’s Syndrome (submitted as Five Nine), 8, 1p, bolts or TR.
E. Not Lichen This, 9+, 1p, bolts.
F. Lichen This, 9, 1p, bolts.
G. Not So Hostile Krainzover, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Hostile Krainzover, 10-, 1p, bolts.
I. 5.6 Crack, 6, 1p, gear.
J. Feet Do Not Fail Me Now, 8, 1p, 45', bolts or TR.
K. The Spine, 10+, 1p, bolts.
L. Road Rash (submitted as Flakin' Out), 10-, 1p, bolts.
M. Dirty Love, 9, 1p, bolts.
N. They Call Me Shorty, 7, 1p, 45', bolts.
O. Little Squirt, 6,1p, 35', bolts.

Around the corner (West side) L->R:
A. Little Haus, 10, 1p, bolts.
B. Throwin' The Drool Again, 11-, 1p, bolts.
C. Half and Half, 8, 1p, bolts & gear.
D. Dink, 11- PG-13, 1p, 30', bolts.
E. Macho Picasso, 13, 1p, 35', bolts.

The Steep Stuff (South side) L->R:
A1. Abstract Plain, 14, 1p, bolts.
A1B1. Crystal Ball, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
B1. Crystal Ball Direct, 12, bolts.
B2B1. Crystal Ball Variation / Sky Pilot, 12+, 1p, bolts.
B1G. The Ol' Ball and Chain, 12+, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Burning Down the Haus, 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
D. 5.10 Crack, 10, 1p, gear.
E. Torqued Blow, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Sky Pilot, 12+, 1p, 45', bolts.
G. Chainsaw, 12+, 1p, 45', bolts.

Getting There

Keystone crags (also known as Montezuma) lie just a couple of miles East of Keystone (the town) on the South flank of Porcupine Peak. The most expedient approach is to drive to Dillon and take 6th avenue East to Keystone. After the last shops in town continue East - as though you were headed to A-Basin. A sharp right turn on to CO 5 will snake you beside the Keystone lodges. Stay on CO 5 for approximately 1.5 miles, and park in a dirt pullout on the left side of the road. Crags will have been visible from the moment you pass the lodges, and the creek will be nearby and on the right. The key is to find the pullout on the left as you head East. If you come to the FR260 fork, then you have gone too far. There will be a short embankment at the pullout and room for six or eight cars. The approach trail is a sharp left on top of the embankment from the parking lot. This will take you up hill for 10 minutes or less to a short talus field and the trail will continue to the left where you'll cross a small rock slide. Continue on the trail for another minute or so, and you'll run right into the south side of the Rock.

*Wear shoes that are good for hiking a steep trail.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Haus Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 132 ● Feet Do Not Fail Me Now Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 65 ● Not So Hostile Krainzover Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 116 ● Lichen This Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 47 ● Not Lichen This Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 88 ● Hostile Krainzover Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 23 ● Top Soil Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 50 ● Little Haus Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 108 ● The Spine Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 70 ● Crystal Ball Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 8 ● Sky Pilot Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 4 ● The Ol' Ball and Chain Trad, Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 8 ● Torqued Blow Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 10 ● Macho Picasso Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a 4 ● Burning Down the Haus Sport