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Routes in The Main Wall
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"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Arch Duke Dude, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bull Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bull run direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chartreuse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dead rat tat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dry Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Enabler, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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House Made of Dawn S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Muffin Man T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nero's Fiddle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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PTS Crack (The Patridge Town Send) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snaking the Drain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Strands un Dunn T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trusting the Rubber S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jim Dunn, Michael Macklin '75 |
| Page Views: | 5,637 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | john strand on Jun 24, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
A classic Jim Dunn crack out in the woods. Jim got around and knew a good line when he saw it. This beautiful crack runs the full height of the cliff, starting with a 9+ pitch of hand jamming up a corner to a big belay ledge. The crack then continues with an angling wide section to a pod where you can get a stance. A few chimney moves gets you back into finger and hand jamming. When you get to the pine tree, step out left to the clean crack that leads to the bolted anchor. Taping for the hand jams recommended.
Originally done as three pitches using pins on the ledge and a now deceased tree for a belay, the belays are now bolted. A single 60m will get you down in 2 drops. Gear for the first pitch is excellent, especially if you have a finger sized off-set cam for the first piece. The wide section of the second pitch requires some care and a #5 Camalot early on. Oh, and the second pitch might feel like a wicked sandbag at it's traditional 9+ grade unless you have huge mitts.
Named for Stewart Green, James' friend . Get It ?
Location
Protection
Pitch 1 - Cams up to #3 Camalot size, doubles of the red and gold (you could use 3 golds if you have them). A finger tip sized off-set cam makes a great first piece, otherwise you have to boulder up a little more to put a regular one in. For pitch 2, add a #4 and 5 Camalot (used early on) and a light set of nuts. The belays are bolted (1/2" SS Rawl 5 pc with quicklinks) rap stations. A single 60m gets you down with a lower and rap.
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