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Routes in Voodoo Dome
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Crossbones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Dihedral Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Emperor (aka Pea Soup), The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Light Side, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Momma Told Me Not to Come T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Random Neural Firing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Skull, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Summer Sojourn T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Voodoo Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Voodoo Chīle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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White Punks on Dope T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Bender, Warender (1974) |
| Page Views: | 6,271 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2006 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Pitch 1 (5.7)
Stem and jam an obvious deep crack system in a corner/gully. An offwidth section past a small roof is the crux. Belay from bolts on a sloping ledge beneath a striking dihedral with offwidth. (Alternately, climb a hand crack on the prow out to the left of the traditional start. This 5.8/5.9 crack leads to the same belay as the traditional start.)
Pitch 2 (5.6)
Stem the striking dihedral above the belay. The crack takes 3.5-4.5" (?). Easier crack climbing leads to a belay beneath a roof.
Pitch 3 (5.7/5.8)
Bypass the roof on the right (crux of route) and belay from a sloping ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.5)
Climb up then traverse left on slab to a dish and gear. Climb the water groove above to belay from bolts. The traverse and the runout up the groove is the pshychological crux for many.
Pitch 5 (5.4)
Continue up slab to a large belay ledge.
Pitch 6 (5.5)
Climb a headwall via chickenheads.
Stem and jam an obvious deep crack system in a corner/gully. An offwidth section past a small roof is the crux. Belay from bolts on a sloping ledge beneath a striking dihedral with offwidth. (Alternately, climb a hand crack on the prow out to the left of the traditional start. This 5.8/5.9 crack leads to the same belay as the traditional start.)
Pitch 2 (5.6)
Stem the striking dihedral above the belay. The crack takes 3.5-4.5" (?). Easier crack climbing leads to a belay beneath a roof.
Pitch 3 (5.7/5.8)
Bypass the roof on the right (crux of route) and belay from a sloping ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.5)
Climb up then traverse left on slab to a dish and gear. Climb the water groove above to belay from bolts. The traverse and the runout up the groove is the pshychological crux for many.
Pitch 5 (5.4)
Continue up slab to a large belay ledge.
Pitch 6 (5.5)
Climb a headwall via chickenheads.
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