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Two Heads Are Better Than One
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 33
votes
Routes in Dragon Arch
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Dragon Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Gimme Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Iridescence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Shout T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Michael Durvidge & Pat Contor, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,351 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Nov 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Two Heads climbs the gritty slab a few feet left of Dragon Arch. Easy but hard-to-protect moves up a couple of overlaps lead to a left-trending seam protected by micros (nuts & cams) then up to a large roof that can be surmounted a few different (and possibly wild) ways.
The moves to the roof a ways above small pieces require a solid lead head - or possibly a second one.
The upper section is bolt-protected and features fun chickenhead pulling and slab moves.
A bit stout and heady for 5.9- but definitely worthy of a few stars...
The moves to the roof a ways above small pieces require a solid lead head - or possibly a second one.
The upper section is bolt-protected and features fun chickenhead pulling and slab moves.
A bit stout and heady for 5.9- but definitely worthy of a few stars...
Location
This route starts a few feet left of Dragon Arch and climbs up and around the large left-trending roof.
Protection
3 bolts, the first one well hidden on top of a huge chickenhead sitting at the lip of the roof (some webbing makes it more visible).
Micronuts and small cams for the start, nothing bigger than a #1 BD C3.
Long slings to tie-off knobs.
2 bolt anchor with fresh-looking webbing and quicklinks (shared with Dragon Arch). Rap off to save your rope for being gnawed on by gritty choss.
Micronuts and small cams for the start, nothing bigger than a #1 BD C3.
Long slings to tie-off knobs.
2 bolt anchor with fresh-looking webbing and quicklinks (shared with Dragon Arch). Rap off to save your rope for being gnawed on by gritty choss.
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