Bivy sites for Sharkstooth?

Hello,

Heading out to Northeast Ridge of Sharkstooth in July, and we have a bivy permit. Does anyone know where the best bivy sites are between the trail, and the start of the route. Best thing I could find, was someone said the large boulders near the base. Is that above the smaller cliff band you see on the approach? Or is there a better spot lower in the Gash.

Thanks,

I would suggest leaving the bivy gear behind and doing it in a day. We had a party of three, got the bottom of the gash around sun-rise and had no problem finishing the climb before the afternoon t-storms.

I recall seeing some bivy sites near the top of the gash on the Petit side, but that entails carrying everything up to the base of the climb. There are some level ledges at the base. Hang your stuff well above the ground or the marmots will destroy whatever they can get to.

You might be able to find something among the large boulders just before turning off Andrew's Glacier trail into the gash. When we did the climb last July 18th there was still a good bit of snow around that area though and I wasn't paying attention to bivy sites. I don't recall seeing much level ground once starting up the gash.

One of my favorite climbs, IMO better than the Petit. Have a good time.

Thanks for the reply Ralph,

Did the Petit years ago, and Spearhead last year. Really looking forward to Sharkstooth. I guess I'll just see what looks good when we get there. Do you know if there is any water near the base?

NOFF wrote:Do you know if there is any water near the base?

In July there will likely still be snow on that north side (the Gash) and the odds are very good you will find water.

I too would recommend doing it in a day. But, if you're like me, I just like bivying. The Gash is so big that it should easily provide a good bivy spot, especially with a few rock adjustments, but probably nothing as nice as you found for the Spearhead.

Thanks for the help guys,

Nice to have a site with REAL helpful climbers.

There is water at the gash/andrews creek on the way up for sure. I'm not sure about at the base of the climb though. I did it last year and had a blast. We did it in a day though and actually beat the bivy site team to the base, lol. It all worked out as we shared ropes for the rappel and got down quick.

inbetween Shark's Tooth and the Petit there is a covered boulder bivvy spot that is big enough for three people. With a little improvement it would be very weather-tight. I've used this site several times over the years and it's slowly seeing improvements. It's situated close to the lake on a slabby area. Usually I have to get the water from the lake. I'm going up there thursday to look around and see just how much snow there is.....

I agree with the one day in and out; lighter load, fewer bugs, potentially avoid a rain soaked bivy, etc.. It is a spectacular place to hang out but.....

Thanks again for all the info...

I've done a couple of in a day routes there, and it's a great way to go. But coming from Nashville, any extra alpine time I can get just adds to the experience. I used to come up to the park years ago, Petit, and the Diamond, but started going to Yosemite and climbing walls. When I went back to RMNP a few years ago, I was smacking myself for not going back to that incredible park sooner.

Jack,

Thanks for the info on the cave. Is that in the Gash, or on the other side of the ridge below Petit?

If you get off the trail near where it starts climbing away from the creek just as you start entering the Gash area and follow a faint trail near the creek then bear left staying low in the Gash, you'll eventually come to an ENORMOUS (large-house-sized) boulder. On the southwest side of this boulder (opposite side from your approach) is a huge flat dirt area that is largely sheltered by the overhang of the boulder on that side. I don't know if this is one of the official bivy sites, but it's obviously been used a lot. It's a fair distance away from Sharkstooth, but has amazing views of the formation and is one of the better bivy sites I've seen anywhere. Sorry for the somewhat vague directions, we found this on our way back down and we did the climb in a day so I wasn't paying super good attention. If I ever do the route with a bivy though I'll definitely try to find it again. Also agree that your planned route is outstanding!

Thanks for sharing the location of the prime bivy spot Kevin. I haven't bivied on that side yet, but I'm going to look for it if I ever stay on that side!

And is it really better than the "Hilton" by Spearhead? I swear, that one under the huge erratic is unbeatable!

If you're set on camping, you might consider the Andrews Tarn backcountry site. It's a pretty setting, has good running water, is probably 3.5 - 4 miles up from the trailhead and you don't have to lug all that stuff all the way up there, including over that one "cliffy" thing. Plus, you could throw in a quick romp up Zowie (just minutes from that site), a miniature Petit, on your exit day. Also, the NE Ridge on Sharkstooth is fairly short, 4-5 pitches with a fairly quick rap back to near the base. It's much shorter than the Petit or North Ridge on Spearhead.

jack roberts wrote:inbetween Shark's Tooth and the Petit there is a covered boulder bivvy spot that is big enough for three people. With a little improvement it would be very weather-tight. I've used this site several times over the years and it's slowly seeing improvements. It's situated close to the lake on a slabby area. Usually I have to get the water from the lake. I'm going up there thursday to look around and see just how much snow there is.....

Agree on those improvements over the years. My first use of it was a tight 2 person bivy about '85. Great drainage and shelter.

Ditto to what Kevin Craig wrote. I've done Shark's Tooth twice (both times in one day without bivy) but noticed the very cozy, dry cave under that huge-ass boulder. It's in the Gash just a shot way from where you leave the creek.
If you are doing Northeast Ridge you won't be able to use the Petit bivy site, that's on the other side of the saddle isn't it?

Sadly Tim, I haven't had the opportunity to climb Spearhead yet, so I can't comment on the Hilton boulder.

Thanks for all the information,

That big ass boulder sounds great! I stayed up at the big flat top boulder under Spearhead, and it was awesome. After I had been sitting on top for awhile, I noticed something manmade down across the drainage. It was a little wall, I checked it out, and bam, the Hilton! It was almost full of snow, but we climbed down in it and could see how cool it would be.