Meant to type "much stiffer than other 5.9's in the park."
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI May 17, 2010
The exit move through the small roof is so devious... One time it is a breeze.... the next time it shuts down.... This climb is so reachy and moves all over it seems to take advantage of best holds.... This is a tough "on-sight".
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Sep 20, 2010
Where did you guys climb on this face? Did you follow the watermarks to a large ledge and then straight up passing an undercling and shitty sidepulls and crimps? Or did you follow the roof and exit right? If the former, this route is sandbagged.
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 20, 2010
The route starts center bottom in the picture and goes up and leftward across the dark stains to the little roof on left side of face. R-Exam is the lefty route of your two descriptions. The right route is un-named and not even included in latest SVO/PM 3rd addition CGTDL. I have TR'd it with others but don't remember exact difficulty.... 5.11 or harder and FUN! In Nick's description he means pass the little overhang (on the left) top on it's right side.
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Sep 20, 2010
Ok. So I wasn't entirely crazy when I got on this route and felt like it was more 5.11 than 5.9. I didn't even move that far over to the left to actually do R. Exam... but the route I did was very fun. I'm glad this is cleared up.