I am a 22 year old guy who just finished up some hard seasonal work and would like to relax and blow my money while climbing somewhere in the US. I can climb 5.10 sport and like to dabble in trad and aid when available. I am hoping for some advice on a good climbing spot where someone like myself can sleep in a car or tent for cheap and find partners with minimal effort. Ideally a modern camp 4 of the 70s/80s.
I know the names and locations of most of the major destinations and have climbed at a couple (Smith Rock and Red River Gorge) but don't have a good sense of the character/qualities of these places (ie. Yosemite vs. Red Rocks). If someone would be generous enough to give me a short rundown of the "top 10" and a little advice on which one would be most friendly to a relative novice it would be greatly appreciated.
In oregon, there's smith rock ,which will have all the sport you could want. They also have the bivy site that is $3/night and there's showers.
For moderate trad, I'd say go to lover's leap, tahoe. I think they might be charging 5/night for camping now. Running water. Shower and bar down the way. This is my sentimental favorite. There is alot of other stuff in the tahoe vicinity and yosemite isn't a bad drive for a trip. May/June is perfect season.
On of the coolest scenes I've ever hung out in is the Custer State Park/Rushmore south dakota climbing scene. Not world class climbing, but great people, fun historic routes, $8 steaks, and all the biker babes you could want!
I think the Bishop area would fit into your list since it has -excellent sport climbing/ lots of routes in the 5.10 and below range. -some trad areas. -cheap camping &/or free camping (live out of car o.k.). Probably find partners at the Pit C.G. near the Gorge. -good rest day activities: hot springs, hikes, etc. -only downside is the weather could be downright hot. It'd be best to visit in Sept/Oct when access to Tuolumne is on.
I was wondering about Leavenworth as a 'destination'. Seems good for the summer, and even has some alpine nearby(?) along with sport/trad/and bouldering. Is there a month's worth of climbing there? 2 months? When is the best time to go?
Leavenworth certainly has some good rock and would be a fun spot to check out if you're in the area. If you've got something like the Sierra East side or Southern Utah in mind you'll be disappointed. There is some fun, good quality climbing there but it's not that close to other areas and there's simply not that much of it. If you're headed up that way you should drive another few hours and go to Squamish, there's probably at least a couple of weeks worth of decent climbing if you're motivated. ;)
Maybe I missed it, but did you mention when you would be going?
Leavenworth is a great place to climb but the couple times I was there I did not really experience a "scene" where it would be possible to easily find partners.
Squamish would be more conducive to this, and I believe has more sport climbing.
Smith is great, but since you say you are from Oregon you probably all ready know that.
Personally one of my all time favorite places to climb is The City, but I have never been there as a solo.
The Red with the scene at Miguels is probably an easy place to find partners, but is hot and humid over the summer.
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