The Start Of it All

The following was originally posted by Paul Ross as a route description:

The following old photo's are posted to illustrate to the current generation of climbers that the sport did not start about three years ago in a gym. Most of these climbs (up to 5.8/9) from the late 1800's to about 1920 or later were done with ONLY a rope and no protection. During these years strange as it may seem no belay as we know today was used,at best and if available the rope was simply passed behind a spike of rock.Perhaps one reason for their blind courage and lack of practical thought with regards technology, was most if not all of the early climbers were graduates of Britain's finest universities ......The most important rule of climbing in those days was :- The LEADER never falls (or at least twice !)....The Photos also show that the "modern" sport of bouldering was practiced by climbers well before 1890 ,quite some time before claims by over muscled Yosemite sit starters!However bouldering unlike today was not taken seriously and was regarded as just something to do when one had time to kill ... The boulder on the right illustrates this in 1890. Note the heavy nailed boots,these were standard footwear .When sneakers, then called tennis shoes, were first introduced about 1920/50's they were considered cheating and were only used by "rock gymnasts" . They were not "real" mountaineering rock climbers !.Climbing shoes PA/EBs did not appear in the UK until about 1957/58 I tried a pair of nailed boots ,personally I think they only advantage was that they exercised the arms! As Britain has such a wet climate other footwear that was use up into the 1950's was just stocking feet or socks pulled over ones sneakers,(In UK sneakers are called gym shoes,tennis shoes and or ..yes rubbers.)Wool socks gave a better grip on wet rock than cotton.Yes it used to be a pastime for the very brave few....now a big R is used for a runout of 10'.....Enjoy






--- Invalid image id: 106752778 ---
--- Invalid image id: 106752782 ---
--- Invalid image id: 106752789 ---

--- Invalid image id: 106752801 ---

--- Invalid image id: 106752804 ---
--- Invalid image id: 106752808 ---
--- Invalid image id: 106752820 ---






--- Invalid image id: 106752849 ---

--- Invalid image id: 106754016 ---

This was originally posted by Phil Persson as a comment under the route description:

Ahaha... I love this Paul. Great to see some history on here! Keep up the good work.

Awesome!

So classy too - gotta start climbing in knickers and a wool coat!

Bold and inspiring.

Thought provoking! Write a book.

that OW in the 5th picture down looks amazing

Man, that really makes us climbers today look like a bunch of pus... I mean fortitudinally challenged persons.

Outstanding history lesson. These images expand the imagination and awareness of not only those who came before us but rather of the direction we choose to go in our own lives. Thank you for sharing.

Paul Ross wrote:

I don't know what you're talking about, this technique is still widely used.

These photos are just mesmerizing. It makes my struggles learning to climb seem insignificant in light of what these early climbers were facing.

When I was your age I would walk in 9ft of snow,
just to jerk-off to some fat chik in a black and white photo.

That must have sucked.
People today just use the internet?

Early native American cultures climbed without ropes
to protect their families by building cities on the cliffs.
I'm glad the brits had free time to flail on slabby boulders.

None of them could climb 14d/9a
with all the protection in the world so who cares?

Nice Paul! Keep 'em coming!

MrBurns wrote: None of them could climb 14d/9a with all the protection in the world so who cares?

Good point, but there seem to be many climbers today that can't climb 5.9 with all the protection in the world, yet here we see a lady soling one in a dress.

Mike Anderson wrote: Good point, but there seem to be many climbers today that can't climb 5.9 with all the protection in the world, yet here we see a lady soling one in a dress.

That lady soloing a 5.9 (presumably onsight?) in 1920 is way more impressive to me than someone camping out for a season and working their bolted project into submission.

Edit: Thanks to Paul & Mono for the pictures!

excellent photos. love the black and whites.

Awesome, and inspiring photos! I often look at a variety old photos whenever I can (in books, and at antique malls, and such), sometimes staring in awe at how hard the men, and women were back in the day; I love the history, and to take myself back in time for a moment. Those photos took me back to a special place today. Thanks for posting! : )

O.G. Jones - I presume that stands for "original gangsta?"

definitely some fun pictures. i found it interesting inClimb! A History of Rock Climbing in Colorado that a prevailing sentiment among very early 20th century climbers was that using a rope was "unsportsmanlike." i also liked the pictures of folks descending the Third by sliding down the east face on their stomachs.

I imagine if anyone in these photos tore their meniscus in a climbing incident (or worse) like I did two years ago . . . they'd be limping into the late 20th century - not training for a race in May. Adds a bit to the "bold" category. I imagine getting injured in those days (doing anything) could be quite terrifying - didn't exactly have OSHA and FMLA, etc.