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Two bolts recently appeared on the overhang near the top of the Chouinard route McTavish, at Sespe Gorge. <br /> <br />The Tucker/Steele guide refers to two different variations for surmounting the overhang and makes no reference to bolts.  If these bolts were added recently, they need to go. <br /> <br />Does anybody know anything about this situation?

Id# 106726848,  Dimensions: 1000 x 1500 - View full size 

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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 11, 2010

Worst of all, the bolts are located just a few feet from an obvious crack. In addition, there is a solid rappel tree visible to the left.

By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Apr 11, 2010

These bolts have been added to either McTavish (RH variation), Hangin' Round, or Chips Block. Can't really tell from the photo, but they all share the dihedral.

It is certainly on an established routes and interrupts climbing in the middle of a pitch where perfect natural pro exists. It also appears someone has scrubbed the moss off the rock where the rope is hanging.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 11, 2010

Hi Jon. Thanks for weighing in.

I may have created some confusion. To clarify, this is not the dihedral climbed by Chip's Block. This is the dihedral 60 feet to the left and up from the rappel tree atop Half Ascent. The photo is actually taken from the rappel tree atop Half Ascent.

Also to clarify, according to the Tucker/Steele guidebook, McTavish heads up this way from the rappel tree atop Half Ascent:
"From the point where Half-Ascent gains the lower left-hand edge of the large slab (block), use edges and ledges to zig-zag a course for a right-leaning ceiling some 40 feet up and left."

By Slater
Apr 13, 2010

Better nip this in the bud me thinks... or else they'll be sprouting up like lichen. Gotta take care of your own crag Matt, go pull 'em.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 14, 2010

With clarification from guidebook author Steve Tucker, it seems quite certain that the Chouinard route McTavish climbs up to and through the roof shown in this photo. Please see a topo for McTavish here

Fortunately, the individual who placed the bolts on McTavish has committed to removing them. Stay tuned.

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Two bolts recently appeared on the overhang near the top of the Chouinard route McTavish, at Sespe Gorge.

The Tucker/Steele guide refers to two different variations for surmounting the overhang and makes no reference to bolts. If these bolts were added recently, they need to go.

Does anybody know anything about this situation?

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Apr 11, 2010