Lemmon Squeeze Job

Make sure you tape the holds you want us to use. ( Probably suggest the feet too please. )

Can't wait!
DZ

Looks like on of the those squeeze jobs where you climb and try to figure out which hold are on and which aren't. I vote don't bolt.

RyanJ wrote:Having climbed both of the existing routes multiple times, I'd suggest not putting in a new route between them. I don't think it is worth it to place two bolts and then go into a section of rock that is shared by two other routes. You already have the option to toprope that section of rock from the anchors anyways. Ten feet of rock doesn't seem like a worthwhile variation.

Yep! Toproped the hell out of it. Just be ready to grease the elbows. Cleaned the rock on those routes off & on for several years after putting them up and regreted putting them up.Guess how we came up with the name.

All said they turned out to be some ok routes close to the road.I don't think bolting this is worth it for many reasons.Do what ever you want, but be prepared for your parade to be rained on. Beware if you go pokin around some of 'Mt. Lemmons' classics 'bolted or trad'.

A good example of a good squeeze job is Geir's route to the right of Yard Boss and left of Crime and Punishment. It uses a few holds on both routes as well as a lot of new holds, it is mostly trad gear with one bolt that can't easily be clipped from the other routes, and you never really want to, nor is it easy to move over to the other line. I try not to put up routes where you have to ask yourself as you are climbing: is this hold on? On the contrary if you can reach it you can use it as Geir figured out on his "squeeze job". Once he quit trying to avoid holds on the other routes and just used what he would have naturally the climb got a little easier but was still a nice addition to Jailhouse rock. And as said earlier I can point you in the direction of some cliffs worth developing where the question will be yours to ask and answer. Good luck.

Bolt it! If you want to climb it then its your decision whether or not you want to spend the resource to do so. Its not about anyone elses route near by, you have just as much right as anyone else in the world. Just keep it safe and don't ruin it for the rest.