An open letter to a certain rude aid climber ... (edited title)

Mike Anderson wrote: The rise and acceptance of aid "climbing" is a pretty interesting historical phenomena. It began in Europe as a means to overcome very short/difficult passages on much grander mountain routes. Then the Californians bastardized it (as Californians tend to do with everything) to the point that it was an end in itself. Now you have people that will seek out El Cap routes with the MINIMUM possible amount of free climbing. I'm sure the early European mountaineers would be completely flabergasted by this.

Well, not to take anything away from yr larger point, but big aid walls began in the Dolomites well before the Sierra Clubbers had learned how to order pitons from Sporthausschuster. Comici and the Dimais on N. Face of Cima Grande 1933 is a prime example.

But yeah, gankin a popular, short, classic free route for n00b aid practice seems annoying.

Learn to aid traversing cracks?
Every crack in LCC leans to the right, except for mexican and maybe a couple other obscure lines. Might be a reason for the aid climber's choice?

Tony B wrote:I'm not pointing fingers at who, I'm just saying... Telling Stories, lyrics by Tracy Chapman There is fiction in the space between the lines on your page of memories Write it down but it doesn't mean you're not just telling stories There is fiction in the space between you and reality You will do and say anything to make your everyday life seem less mundane There's a science fiction in the space between you and me A fabrication of a grand scheme where I am the scary monster I eat the city and as I leave the scene in my spaceship I am laughing In your remembrance of your bad dream there's no one but you standing Leave the pity and the blame for the ones who do not speak You write the words to get respect and compassion and for posterity You write the words and make believe there is truth in the space between There is fiction in the space between you and everybody Give us all what we need give us one more sad sordid story But in the fiction of the space between ...Sometimes a lie is the best thing

You just quoted Tracy Chapman to prove your point. hahahahahah