|Comments on Photo||Add Comment|
Apr 27, 2015
Just a little note on the vocabulary here:
1.) "Red Point" applies to Lead climbing. A climber has "red pointed" a route by leading it without falls. The term has undergone serious modifications from its initial use back in the 1970's when Austrian climbers first introduced the concept. Back then they would paint a small red circle at the base of a route that was still a project. Once the route had been led, ground up, no falls, the red circle was painted in, leaving a "Red Point." The ascent was considered a valid "Red Point" ONLY if:
a.) on a bolted route, the lead climber also installed the quick
draws on lead during the successful send.
b.) on a crack route, all protection was placed during the lead.
Back then, if one successfully sent a route with the draws already in place, then the send was referred to as a "Pink Point"", and was not considered legit...well...we all know where that went.
Current consensus for Crack Climbing is that you must place all the pro on lead in order to claim that you "Led" the route, because placing gear is half the battle in any crack climb. There is a certain amount of fuzzy about pre-clipping bolts on routes that are a combination of bolts and crack gear...is it more legit to have to place ALL pro on a hybrid route, or is it OK to have the draws hanging while placing the other gear?? That's up to you, I guess.
Oh...BTW...a "Brown Point" is when you hung on the pro while claiming to have "sent" the route. This probably applies to any climb, be it a boulder problem, TR or lead...No Brown Pointing allowed!
2.) A Top Rope send really has no specific name, other than..say
..a "No Falls" TR..."Hang-Free" TR...you get the picture.
Anyway, great job on climbing this route successfully. It is hard, rounded and defines the term PUMPY when you are breaking into 5.10 climbing. Next time try doing lapse on it and really work the rest positions to get in as much vertical as you can before taking over at the belay.
|Avg Score||0.0 from 0 votes|