Question on Prusik-ing
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A self rescue forum a couple of weeks ago motivated me to practice prusiking up a rope in the event that somehow on belay, you couldn't be lowered or get back on the wall. I found ascending up a single rope pretty straight forward and actually kinda fun. |
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You would have to have two sets of prussics and move them up the rope at the same time. |
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A prusik (or most any other friction-hitch) works fine around two strands. You may need to adjust the number of wraps. |
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No need for two sets of prussic cord, just wrap around both strands. |
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Thanks for the replies! |
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Try a BACHMANN!?! |
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Chase Roskos wrote:No need for two sets of prussic cord, just wrap around both strands.+1 Just one set around both ropes |
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Prusik is fantastic as an ascender knot, but stick tot he Bachman for a backup or descending knot as it unweights so much better. Once the prusik catches tight with weight on a wet rope, well good luck getting it to slide again. |
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Hey John, was that thread over on RC.com? I think I might have seen that. Yeah, I need to practice prussicing (spelling?). I do have a question though: how long should the cord be for a prussic? And for that matter, how long should the cord be for an autoblock (set up below the rappel device)? |
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ShibbyShane wrote: I do have a question though: how long should the cord be for a prussic? And for that matter, how long should the cord be for an autoblock (set up below the rappel device)?I like a 5.5' or 6' loop for a prussik cord and about half that for an autoblock. If you use a short prussik you can extend it with your daisy or a runner if need be. I also use a shoulder length runner for the autoblock below my rap device quite a bit too, though you may need to extend your device. If you are new to the ideas of self rescue, this is a great book to check out. books.google.com/books?id=J… |
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Uhh the thread I was referring to was here on MP. I really don't need another climbing website to enjoy (waste) hours of the day on :) |
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John Maguire wrote:What diameter cord do you use. I'll admit when I played around I was using like 2-3 mil accessory cord that isn't at all climbing spec. I was thinking 6 mil might be a little easier to slide and wouldn't over-tighten so much. I use 6mm. Good bite and also more than strong enough. John Maguire wrote:Do you guys carry this on every multi-pitch climb.Just about, but not always. |
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OK here is another question: |
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John Maguire wrote:Do you guys carry this on every multi-pitch climb.I don't. I have needed to prussik a rope exactly twice. Both times I used slings. They worked great. Once was on one rope, the other time was on two ropes. John Maguire wrote:How many people use a backup knot when they rap?I don't. I rappel with both hands on the brake. My partners and I usually provide fireman's belays, especially if the rappel is not straight down. |
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Awesome, thanks for all the advice guys. |
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I always carry a cord for autoblock even tho I don't use it consistently. |
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I'll go without if I'm close to the ground and/or have a fireman's belay from a trusted partner. |
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John Maguire wrote:What diameter cord do you use. I was thinking 6 mil might be a little easier to slide and wouldn't over-tighten so much. Do you guys carry this on every multi-pitch climb. I was thinking about maybe just buying some for a cordellete (sp) since I usually have my knife with me on most routes. I can't see needing it too often, but man would it suck if you did and didn't have any cord!I carry 6mm for short prussiks and 7mm for my cordalette. I always have at least one prussik with me wrapped around the bit of my harness that comes from my leg loop through the belay loop. It stays out of the way and its always there if I need it. You could easily put a second one on the other side and you never have to think about it again. I do always carry at least a prussik or runners on a multipitch, just in case. As far as cutting your cordalette for a prussik, I'd be much more likely to just tie an over hand knot in your coralette to shorten it up instead of cutting it. Just my $.02 Joseph Brown wrote:I've never regretted having an autoblock & it's come in handy several times when having to sort out rope or clean gear that my 2nd couldn't retrieve.+1. Its easier just to make it habit than to wish you had used it when a bird randomly shits on your head and scares you so bad you let go of the rope... ok, that probably won't happen, but rock fall certainly could... |
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Having a backup is a must just about every time I rap. Exceptions are if it is an extremely short rap (20ft or so) or if there is a ground belay (fireman, hip belay, etc.). Otherwise not using one is just like the seat belt comment (try going through the AAJ AR and looking at how many of them are rap accidents that could have been avoided with a backup). When you need it you really need it. If you get in a habit of using it then if something negative does happen you just go by instinct instead of trying to remember how the damn thing works. |
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RedRockRat wrote:What are peoples thoughts on extending the rappel device(I've heard it called the "cowbell".)?Never heard it called a "cowbell", only a "cowtail". Anyway, I do it most of the time and have never had a problem with it. Its best if your device is within reach, but that isn't mandatory, just makes transferring to another anchor easier. I recommend it if you're backing up below your device. |
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I used to use an autoblock, but seldom do now as it seems to be just extra weight and another thing to fuss with when rapping. A sling, or more often a few raps of the rope around the leg, is quick and requires no extra stuff. |