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Routes in Santaquin Canyon Ice
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Angel of Fear WI5-6 |
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Automatic Control Theory WI5-6 |
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Backoff WI4 |
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Baghdad (Better than Baghdad) M8+ |
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Bozo Gully WI3 |
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Candlestick, The WI5-6 |
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Cutthroat S WI5 R |
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Fairies Wear Boots S M12 |
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Frozen Water Burial M7 PG13 |
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Get Back on It WI4 |
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Gimlet S M7+ |
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Holy Ghost T M8+ |
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Martini S M9 A0-1 |
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Mighty Quinn WI4 M6 |
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Mr. Freeze WI4 |
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No Cigarettes WI3-4 |
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Ricochet T WI5+ M8 |
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Squash Head WI4- |
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Tropical Hooker S M10 |
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| Type: | Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Brian Smoot, Bill Robbins, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 5,791 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | shawn Kenney on Nov 1, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon.
Details
The Mount Nebo Wilderness boundary parallels approximately 100-200 yards south of the Santaquin Canyon road from the mouth of the canyon to Tinney Flat Campground. Wilderness rules blm.gov/wo/st/en/info/regul… apply within the wilderness area (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).
Access Issue: Access Closure
Details
The canyon is closed to all traffic until further notice as of 11/29/23 due to construction. The NFS has hired a contractor to repair the road and they don't want people up the road. The contractor has not given the NFS an end date.
Description
This three pitch route, a crown jewel of the Wasatch Range is located high on the northern facing wall in the canyon which also hosts the two other testpieces, Automatic Control Theory & The Candlestick, combining them all in one season, or in one day is a tick never to forget. That being said, The Angel of Fear only forms once every ten years or so. The reports I have been hearing is 2020, 2010, and again the year of the FA in 1985. So when its in, call in sick, drive across the country and get your ass here, as it is well worth the wait.
Begin by climbing a 20 meter opening pitch to the snow bowl above. To the right of the second pitch column, there is a bolted belay station. The Second pitch climbs a steep pillar that may be capped by a roof to gain the ledge above, known as the first of the the angel's wings. Five meters above the first lege a second ledge is located, with a single bolt found to the right of the column where the third pitch belay is usually located. This is also the spot where the route, Holy Ghost comes into The Angel from the right. The third pitch leaves the belay cave on steep ice to gain the front of the column ~15 meters above where the angle eases back into WI4 climbing to a single bolt anchor above and left of the top out.
Above the route a short WI4 is found named "The Halo" If you made it this far, and you are not soaking wet by now (the case for 2020 ascents) ascend to heaven and finish it.
To get down, a 60M double rope rap from the single bolt gets you to the cone that is the base of the second pitch. From there, a single 60 rap from a tree (climbers left of the second pitch) will get you back to your packs.
Begin by climbing a 20 meter opening pitch to the snow bowl above. To the right of the second pitch column, there is a bolted belay station. The Second pitch climbs a steep pillar that may be capped by a roof to gain the ledge above, known as the first of the the angel's wings. Five meters above the first lege a second ledge is located, with a single bolt found to the right of the column where the third pitch belay is usually located. This is also the spot where the route, Holy Ghost comes into The Angel from the right. The third pitch leaves the belay cave on steep ice to gain the front of the column ~15 meters above where the angle eases back into WI4 climbing to a single bolt anchor above and left of the top out.
Above the route a short WI4 is found named "The Halo" If you made it this far, and you are not soaking wet by now (the case for 2020 ascents) ascend to heaven and finish it.
To get down, a 60M double rope rap from the single bolt gets you to the cone that is the base of the second pitch. From there, a single 60 rap from a tree (climbers left of the second pitch) will get you back to your packs.
Photos
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