The following is a report from Tay Hanson, Senior Park Ranger for BC Parks. A major rockfall event occured yesterday that originated from above the climber's right side of the col. Coincidently, the old raps stations on that side of the col had been removed the previous day because of rockfall concerns. Also note that a new toilet was installed at Applebee to relieve the morning line-ups!
Rain initiated rock and mud slide on 090711 at approx 0900 hrs.
All rappel stations have been removed from the climbers right hand side of the col. This rap route was established during a time when snow and ice covered the scree slope but currently presents an unacceptable rock fall hazard to climbers lower on the col.
Two chain stations have been added to the rap route on climbers left allowing for 3-4 30m rappels over the bergschrund, or more safely, 1 double rope rappel to below the rock island and then another to well below the bergschrund.
As you can see, the col is in disastrous condition and is best avoided.
Also included is a pic of Applebees new rock toilet.