Lifespan of an unused rope?

Jason Halladay wrote: ...Two years ago I was the director of an local climbing club's annual climbing school. For one of the sessions we have a setup that allows students to catch an 8 foot leader fall. The "leader" is actually three 50-pound coil springs (150lbs total) that we hoist up and drop. We dropped this leader 23 consecutive times (23 students) in the roughly the same spot on the climbing rope. The rope we used was at least three years old and was a used 10.5mm rope donated by a club member. After about 16 falls the sheath had melted through and the leader falls were now taking place on the core strands. The rope still never broke. After seeing that (and I've seen the same thing every year during this course) I have a serious respect for the integrity of climbing ropes.

Interesting. About what fall factor was it?

Mike wrote: Interesting. About what fall factor was it?

Roughly 1.08 to 1.1, I believe. 150 lb "climber", ~4 ft. above the anchor (an oval steel carabiner on a static rope anchored to the top of the cliff so little to no dynamic properties in the anchor), 40 to 45 feet of rope out. This year I should measure the distances involved to get a more accurate idea of the fall factor.

Jason Halladay wrote: Roughly 1.08 to 1.1, I believe. 150 lb "climber", ~4 ft. above the anchor (an oval steel carabiner on a static rope anchored to the top of the cliff so little to no dynamic properties in the anchor), 40 to 45 feet of rope out. This year I should measure the distances involved to get a more accurate idea of the fall factor.

I'm not following. The weight you're dropping is around 4 feet above the anchor, and you have 40 to 45 feet of rope out? That's not a factor 1 fall, it's 8/40 = 0.2.

GO

GabeO wrote: I'm not following. The weight you're dropping is around 4 feet above the anchor, and you have 40 to 45 feet of rope out? That's not a factor 1 fall, it's 8/40 = 0.2. GO

Yep, you're right. That's what I get for using this calculator and not checking the math. I was in a hurry and it looked wrong so that's why I included the numbers involved.

Beal recommends a total of 15 years. For example, 8 years in the closet, 7 years in the field. If you are not comfortable using your ropes, I will happily take them off your hands.

Beal

David Brown wrote: when subjected to the standard UIAA test (a factor two fall) broke on the first attempt. I wouldn't trust my life to them.

The standard UIAA drop test is not a factor 2 fall.

from Beal site link above:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

LIFETIME DYNAMIC ROPES AND ACCESSORY CORDS

• Lifetime = Time of storage before first use + time in use.
The working life depends on the frequency and the type of use.
Abrasion, UV exposure and humidity gradually degrade the properties of the rope.
Note that with use, a rope thickens and thus loses up to 10 % length.
Storage time: In good storage conditions this product may be kept for 5 years before first use without affecting its future lifetime duration in use.

Lifetime:
- Intensive and daily use: 1 year.
- Weekly and intensive use: 2 years.
- Daily in-season use of average intensity: 3 years.
- Weekly in-season use of average intensity: 5 years.
- Several uses during the year of average intensity: 7 years.
- Very occasional light use: 10 years.

Attention: These are the nominal lifetimes indicated, a rope could be destroyed during its first use. It is the inspections which determine if the product must be scrapped more quickly.
Proper storage between uses is essential. The lifetime of the rope in use must never exceed 10 years.

The total maximum lifetime (storage before use + lifetime in use) is thus limited to 15 years.

The rope must be retired earlier:
- if it has held a major fall, approaching fall factor 2
- if inspection reveals or even indicates damage to the core
- if the sheath is very worn
- if it has been in contact with any active or dangerous chemicals
- if there is the slightest doubt about its security

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Interesting stuff (especially the 5yr packaged time-delay)

Greg, I don't have much experience with Beal. Do you think these items would be a fair guide for ALL ropes ?
*note: this question does not include the imo no-brainer reasons for "retiring a rope earlier"

kirra wrote: Greg, I don't have much experience with Beal. Do you think these items would be a fair guide for ALL ropes ? *note: this question does not include the imo no-brainer reasons for "retiring a rope earlier"

Kirra, if you asked mp which ropes last the longest you would get 100 different answers. All ropes don't ware the same and everyone treats their ropes differently. I have emloyed a new guideline for my ropes. I never get lowered off a route when the rope is running through lead gear. This is when the rope is subject to much abrasion cause the gear forces the rope into the rock. My ropes are lasting 2 to 3 times longer as a result.

I do believe those are fair guidlines though for most every modern dynamic rope.

Greg D wrote:Kirra, if you asked mp which ropes last the longest you would get 100 different answers.....I do believe those are fair guidlines though for most every modern dynamic rope.

thanks greg -hense the reason why I asked you and not 'mp' :D

'domo arigato' for sharing that tip also ~k

David Brown wrote:I seem to recall from an old Chouinard Equipment catalog that five year old unused, properly stored ropes, when subjected to the standard UIAA test (a factor two fall) broke on the first attempt.

Finally got around to searching the old catalogs...

UIAA testing is referenced back to the 1972 Chouinard catalog. Pretty basic test back then.

UIAA starting doing rope testing in 1960 (!).

Test was described in the 1975 catalog as: "a 176 pound weight is dropped 16 feet on 9 feet of rope having a static anchor. The effects of sharp bends and knots are included in the test by passing the rope through a carabiner one foot above the anchor and attaching it to the weight with a bowline."

With regard to an old brand new rope not passing testing...

From the 1984 Chouinard catalog: "recent UIAA tests done on never-used, 20-year-old ropes gave sobering results. The ropes had been stored carefully and appeared soft and supple, yet they broke in the first drop."

In 1984, that means they tested a rope from the early 60's.

The '84 catalog also stresses to the reader that the UIAA impact test shouldn't be the only issue to consider. Talks to "working elongation" among other things.

Be interesting to know how the UIAA has evolved their rope testing through the years.

Cheers.

Brian in SLC wrote: Be interesting to know how the UIAA has evolved their rope testing through the years. Cheers.

Yep, thanks for looking this up Brian. With regards to ropes being tested that were produced 20-30+ years ago, one would think that the materials used in rope manufacturing in recent years would reflect a stronger rope, able to better withstand storage & wear. Material fibers, synthetics, and testing etc. probably has evolved quite a bit I'm assuming..

kirra wrote:Greg, I don't have much experience with Beal. Do you think these items would be a fair guide for ALL ropes ? *note: this question does not include the imo no-brainer reasons for "retiring a rope earlier"

*edit -after continued research & reflecting upon my statement/s above, I've decided to check with the individual manufacturer of the rope itself concerning it's age & storage degradation

Interesting.... I have a couple of ropes that I do not use that are 15+ years old. They were used pretty heavily but not very many big falls. they were stored in a dry shaded storeroom on the shelf. I would like to test them to see what happens.

I was looking for a half rope for working some routes from the top and so on. A local fellow was kind enough to give me a rope he hadn't climbed on in years. When I cut the middle section out (some wear) to make two shorter ropes I took it apart. There was a black diamond manufacture dat inside the cores, it was printed on a little plastic thing that ran the whole rope. It said 1996 making the rope 13-14 years old.

I took one of the 11 cores inside and tired it to a beam in the carport. I lifted myself up on it, hung, bounced and tried to break it. I'm only 140 so that isn't saying a ton but all the same there are 11 of them in the rope and the sheath which also held me just fine without any core strands.

After seeing that I gained some serious faith in climbing ropes.

Brian in SLC wrote: From the 1984 Chouinard catalog: "recent UIAA tests done on never-used, 20-year-old ropes gave sobering results. The ropes had been stored carefully and appeared soft and supple, yet they broke in the first drop." In 1984, that means they tested a rope from the early 60's.

I don't remember using kernmantle ropes until the 70's. We were using Goldline, twisted nylon ropes in the early 70's. Do we know what kind of rope they tested? was it a kernmantle or a goldline rope? I remember in '72 when the Yosemite Rescue gear cache burned, there were thousands and thousands of feet of goldline that was given away.