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What do you hate most about rock gyms?

sberk4 · · concord, MA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0
The Boodge wrote: I don't give a rat's ass about sending in the gym, but I go for the workout, and I'd like to know that what I'm getting on is even close to what it's rated. I know that outside I redpoint about 12a/b sport, but in my gym I'm somewhere between 5.9- and 12a. Depends on the setter and his mood that day. Last night I sent a 12a, then couldn't do a 9-. I just wanna know if my planned warm-ups are going to be warm-ups or fuck-me-pump-ups.
This is a problem at my gym too. The routes are fine (though they're set with someone who's 5'6" in mind, so being 6' tall I can bypass a lot of the moves), but the bouldering is really screwed up. There are V3's that would easily get V3 outside, but almost everything <V2 is super easy jug hauling. Kind of annoying if you're a new climber, but not a huge deal overall.

The smell is probably the main thing I dislike. Also slimy/polished holds. The real problem with gyms though isn't any of these things--it's that the routes aren't set to train you for climbing outside. They're set to climb "fun," so the moves aren't consistent to what you'd find in any area outside. I like So Ill holds as much as the next guy for having fun during comps, but there's a real dearth of crimps and incuts, which is really the vast majority of the holds on real rock.
Paul Hunnicutt · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 325

I just HATE the hot girls in incredible tiny bits of clothing constantly forcing me out of my zone. Every time I'm about to send my taped, plastic project some uber hottie has just finished warming up and pulls off the sweatshirt to reveal what I SHOULD be spending my time holding onto.

I'm married, I'm unavailable, you are too young, and I'm hard core training...c'mon just let me live for once!

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

Anyone notice that you could replace tape with dogs and this conversation could be about your favorite local sport crag.....

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Kevin, Paul, ++ !! I loathe somebody's dog sitting on my gear, but not near as much as having to drool over tight young bodies who won't talk to you at all on the gym walls. That truly sucks.( old and single with beer gut also leaves me out of contention)

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

that rock gyms arent rock.

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

The wife and I went to the gym yesterday afternoon and it was friggin great. I'm finally starting to feel strong again. Gyms are a little spendy, but boy can you get honed.

duh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,012
Hank Caylor wrote: Sorry "duh", but because of your username, I just can't oblige you on this one. Is your real name Gern Blanston or something?
heh... at least you're funnier than clamhed. Still, try to remember, that 'back in Rifle in the early 90's', we all used to just point and laugh at you.
Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643
duh wrote: Still, try to remember, that 'back in Rifle in the early 90's', we all used to just point and laugh at you.
I guarantee you weren't. Totally guarantee!

Who's ever heard of Jack Marshall anyways? heh heh!
duh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,012
Hank Caylor wrote: I guarantee you weren't. Totally guarantee! Who's ever heard of Jack Marshall anyways? heh heh!
hummm, more spray?

Never heard of that Jack guy. Maybe that's cuz he doesn't drop names and spray like a fire hose, like you? and for the record, yea, we were all laughing and pointing at you.
Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643
duh wrote: hummm, more spray? Never heard of that Jack guy. Maybe that's cuz he doesn't drop names and spray like a fire hose, like you? and for the record, yea, we were all laughing and pointing at you.
C'mon Jack, that's not spray right there? Yer funny.
Kevin Murphy · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 397

Looks like Hanky has a FanBoy. CAUTION: If Duh stays anonymous, usually means he/she has alife size picture of you in his closet and pulls the old "Crying Game" in front of it. Fanboys at first will attack quite aggressively, but eventually tire themselves out, the scary part is duh is probably someone you know, with tiny little balls.

duh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,012
caughtinside wrote:Careful duh... lots of boulder boys in here to cup the hankster's balls. My biggest gym beef is slimy holds. One of the funniest things at the gym is college night, where either the frat boys or the kids on climbing dates are there.
Yea I know, I fully expect the ball cupppers to show up next, to rescue the Hankster. Still, when every other post is dropping a name or telling me how bitchin they were way back when.... I just had to say something.
duh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,012
Hank Caylor wrote: C'mon Jack, that's not spray right there? Yer funny.
You edited your post?

I'm sorry, but that's just weke.
Hoff Mann · · Knoxville, TN · Joined May 2008 · Points: 50

What gyms are good for solves the problem the guy in another thread has with drinking and climbing....nothing better than turning an otherwise potentially boring night pulling on plastic into a party with a Nalgene of PBR and some good friends.

Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,062
MountainMan wrote: a Nalgene of PBR
mmmmmm BPA-PBR
Hoff Mann · · Knoxville, TN · Joined May 2008 · Points: 50
Mark Roth wrote: mmmmmm BPA-PBR
Hey, it's 3.2 here......adds a little kick.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
MountainMan wrote: Hey, it's 3.2 here......adds a little kick.
It's 3.2 there too.
Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098
duh wrote: You edited your post? I'm sorry, but that's just weke.
I'm not cupping balls here, but if you call someone weak for editing a post while you're being an anonymous coward thats just ritarded.

What?

thats just RitARDed.

Retard?

Thats what I said. Just Ritarded.
Chad Miller · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 150

What do I hate most about rock climbing gyms?

People who hate rock climbing gyms yet still climb there and then bitch about it.

Dana Bol · · Cold Spring · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 75

getting to the top and touching a dust bunnied man-made wall edge instead of belaying my partner up and looking out on a magnificent vista.

btw-the short film at the beginning of this thread is worth a view. made me laugh out loud.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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