CCC Accident?

Anyone have any info? Hope everyone is alright! The 9news article says that it happened Sunday afternoon near Tunnel 2.

Here is the link:

9news.com/news/local/articl…

All i know is it was up at Highlander. From what I was told a man fell about 20ft on to the deck, I think they were on that long 10 herba meda bla bla bla? Sounds like too short of a rope? Dunno hope they rescue went smoothly, thats a hard place to get carried down from

Happened right in front of me. 50m rope on 100+ ft. route. I think herb-a-veg-whaterver is right. Belayer lowered him off the end of the rope, no stopper knot. He fell about 35' on his back, his head narrowly missing a very large rock. Pretty crazy. Didn't appear to have life threatening injuries (hip/pelvis, maybe ribs), hope he heals up.

Props to the rescue services, they were incredibly fast.

Does anyone have any information regarding the condition of the climber who fell? I believe he uses this site and it would be great to hear how he is doing. Also, I took possession of his gear and would like to get it back to him. I can be reached through this site or via cell phone: threezerothree 8eighttwo six2zero6. Thanks to everyone that helped out on this incident. The injured climbers friends and bystanders stepped up and did a fantastic job. Thanks also to Golden Fire and Alpine for their great work as well.

-Mike Morin

Jefferson County Open Space Ranger

I hope he is mending quickly.

Please, folks, tie stopper knots. These accidents are so disgustingly preventable and common.

I got my life saved by stopper knots last years and I've done 100's of raps. No amount of exprience makes you immune to a screw up. Same thing applies to lowering. Tie a knot or tie in the belayer.

Evan

Evan1984 wrote:I hope he is mending quickly. Please, folks, tie stopper knots. These accidents are so disgustingly preventable and common. I got my life saved by stopper knots last years and I've done 100's of raps. No amount of exprience makes you immune to a screw up. Same thing applies to lowering. Tie a knot or tie in the belayer. Evan

Nice post.

We engage in dangerous fun.

Best wishes to the injured climber's speedy recovery.

Yep, at least a stopper knot. Climbers should check their belayers at the same time belayers are checking their climbers. After all, the climber has more to lose if the system is left open.

I just always tie in - system closed, period, but I climb predominately multi-pitch so its just makes sense for both parties to tie-in before anyone leaves the ground.

The scary thing for me with stopper knots when lowering on belay is that I'm focused on the climber and not on the amount of slack. I'm worried by the time I realize I'm at the stopper knot, I just might get my hand pulled into my belay device. Thanks, but no thanks.

I always tie my rope to rope bag with a stopper knot on the bottom end. The sharp end just gets an overhand. The purpose of flaking the rope in a rope bag is that it is ready to go, so why not have it fully ready?

Joseph Brown wrote:I just always tie in - system closed, period, but I climb predominately multi-pitch so its just makes sense for both parties to tie-in before anyone leaves the ground. The scary thing for me with stopper knots when lowering on belay is that I'm focused on the climber and not on the amount of slack. I'm worried by the time I realize I'm at the stopper knot, I just might get my hand pulled into my belay device. Thanks, but no thanks.

joseph- i prefer to tie in as well to close the system. if i'm just cragging, i use a stopper knot.

i've got to say, though, that in 12 years climbing 100-160 days per year, i've never seen a stopper knot pull someone's hand into the belay device. as climbers we have to draw a line between what's theoretically possible and what actually happens in practice.

as an additional example, it's theoretically possible that a person could have their first epileptic seizure and lose control of a lower. one solution to this is that we could always back up lowers with friction hitches, or always use a GriGri. but few people do that. just food for thought.

regards,
geir

with the amazing guide book that darren put out wouldn't one check to see how long the climb is before getting on it?
not to discount the injury to a fellow climber. And people make fun of me because I like 70 meter ropes?

i want an 80m rope.

Geir Hundal wrote:i've got to say, though, that in 12 years climbing 100-160 days per year, i've never seen a stopper knot pull someone's hand into the belay device. as climbers we have to draw a line between what's theoretically possible and what actually happens in practice.

I agree, Geir, it's a highly unlikely scenario that's irrationally stuck in my brain. If I know for certain the rope is long enough and the climber isn't on lead, then a stopper knot doesn't bother me in the least.

The rope was a 50 meter, and it's not clear to me whether or not they realized that it was. It looked rather new.

Joseph Brown wrote: I agree, Geir, it's a highly unlikely scenario that's irrationally stuck in my brain. If I know for certain the rope is long enough and the climber isn't on lead, then a stopper knot doesn't bother me in the least.

cool, thanks for the clarification. climb hard! :)

Anyone know how this guy is doing?

The fallen climber is a friend of mine. I haven't seen him since the accident, so I don't know exactly why this would have happened since he's a very experienced climber (i.e., not tying a stopper knot). I do know that he suffered fairly minor injuries and is back climbing again.

Well at least that's some good news, 2R

Buff Johnson wrote:2R

do you roll your tongue when you say that?

Richard Radcliffe wrote:The fallen climber is a friend of mine. I haven't seen him since the accident, so I don't know exactly why this would have happened since he's a very experienced climber (i.e., not tying a stopper knot). I do know that he suffered fairly minor injuries and is back climbing again.

Thanks for the update. I think the bigger question is why were they using a 50m rope on that climb? Or, anywhere in CCC, actually? On that climb, a little rope stretch would be needed to get you to the ground w/a 60m. A stopper knot in a 50m would've prevented the fall but left them trying to figure out how to get him down the remaining 35 ft to the ground.

Based on conversations I overheard before the accident, I got the impression the belayer was less experienced than the climber. And, from what I saw leading up to the accident, I got the impression it was the belayer's rope. I could be wrong.

But, if that is the case, the reminder we can all benefit from is that you should know how long your partner's rope is before you tie into it and head up a climb. That is especially true in CCC.

WiledHorse wrote: do you roll your tongue when you say that?

Like a jelly butter roll, babycakes

Buff Johnson wrote: Like a jelly butter roll, babycakes

Buff. Don't give away our special secrets.