Best Softshell ???

I'm having quite a dilemna trying to find "the" Softshell for climbing when it's cold and windy. Think synthetic T-shirt, Patagonia R1, and __________...what?

I'm looking for wind and water resistant and warm. So which is it...

Mountain Hardwear Tech Fleece??
North Face Apex Bionic??
Mammut Ultimate Hoody??
Marmot Gravity??
Other??
Hell....am I even on the right track here, or am I missin somethin?

And Yeah...I'm from the Southeast so it's not terrible down here in the winter...but it SUCKS to be up on some multipitch (yes we have that down here) freezing your ass off.

So....recommendations?...suggestions??

Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody.

build layers, it also sucks to be up a pitch and sweating buckets and have little recourse to cool off cause you are wearing only one layer. The MH wind shirts get rave reviews in the North East, but I'm not entirely sure which one or if they are even made the same any more.

Carhartt Active Softshell Jacket. Simple, yet solid.

Try these guys
beyondclothing.com/

Patagonia Ascensionist with an R1 hoody and cap1 base works for me down to pretty cold climbing. In the 20's I've been climbing ice with it and just a cap1 base layer.

If you find one on super sale they're a heck of a deal too. I've seen them 50% off or more.

The speed ascent looks sooo nice but too expensive for me at this time for the amount of super cold climbing I do.

Mountain hardware alchemy or android. I've used both down south and out here in colo. Bombproof.

I've got a Mammut Laser softshell and am very happy with it. It's surprisingly warm for its weight, resists water extremely well, and breathes well. The cut is very nice for climbing in that it's long enough that it stays put under my harness while ice climbing. And, the hood is very well designed to accomodate a helmet with only a limited impact on peripheral vision.

The nanosphere fabric treatment seems to be doing a very good job of keeping it clean.

One complaint I have is in the design of the wrist gaitors. Mammut simply placed a hole at the end of the sleeve rather than extending a gaitor made from a thinner, more flexible material. The material of the sleeve is pretty bulky to pull up and put a glove on top of. And, because the length of the sleeve is too short for a gaitor and the wrist opening is fairly tight, it's uncomfortable to pull the gaitor over a glove.

But, I like the other aspects of the jacket so much that I'm going to have the gaitor modified rather than look for another jacket.

i love my REI One softshell. the schoeller dynamic softshell stuff is super durable, and the One is a good deal more insulated than many other softshells out there right now, so if you're looking for a "cozier" jacket than some of the Mtn Hardware or Arcteryx ones, it's a good option.

The new Arc'teryx Atom series should be getting more rave reviews. It is the jacket I have always wished someone made, being a fleece hater myself. It is a "puffy jacket" only in the broadest sense, as it is less bulky than a Patagonia Micropuff jacket. It is more similar to a Marmot Driclime, but a bit warmer, much more water resistant, and with stretchy gusseted underarm panels of Power Stretch Hardface soft shell that make reaching up while climbing easier, and it breaths very well to boot. And it's actually affordable (180-200 bucks), as far as Arc'teryx goes. There is a hooded version, hoodless version, and a climbing version (MX) with less insulation around the waist (for a harness) and Power Stretch on the forearms. My hoody Atom's hood fits over a Grivel Salamander or a Petzl Meteor III, in spite of what they claim on their site about the hood going under a helmet. The weights for each model go from about 9oz to 14oz depending on style and size. My one and only concern would be durability, but I can't comment one way or another yet. The Atom hoody has become my action layer over nothing but a base layer for ice climbing down to about 20 degrees (we haven't seen much colder temps in North Carolina yet).

I like my MH alchemy. Also have the offwidth but find the alchemy a little more bombproof.

I have a Mammut Ultimate jacket(without hood) and a Arcteryx Gamma MX hoody. I've had the ultimate for about 6 years and I love it. It's about to die and I don't think they make it without a hood anymore...anyway, the Ultimate is warmer but the really nice thing about it is that you can unzip the entire sides of the jacket...which is nice when you're sweating during an approach. You can't do that with a Gamma MX(and not with other jackets either). If I had to do it all over again I would have bought another ultimate (probably with the hood) and not the Gamma MX(which was suppose to replace my Ultimate...but I still wear the heck out of my Ultimate...like I said, it's coming apart at the seams). Buy a Ultimate Hoody...you can't beat the ventilation.

Arcteryx Gamma MX hoody. I use the exact layering system OP describes (plus a big puffy jacket for cold belays) and it's perfect (for me).

The Atom looks intriguing however (especially at the price) so I may check that out.

The sizing on Patagonia is a drawback for me (at least in the Winter Guide which is the only softshell of theirs that I've used). The Large, I can fit an extra person in with me, and the Medium is marginally too short through the arms.

My Mountain Hardware soft shell just refuses to die.

Kevin Craig wrote:The sizing on Patagonia is a drawback for me (at least in the Winter Guide which is the only softshell of theirs that I've used). The Large, I can fit an extra person in with me, and the Medium is marginally too short through the arms.

Maybe their sizing has changed, but I am 5'11" with a +3 ape and the Medium Patagonia Ascentionist fits me great with some extra length on the sleeves. They don't ride up on me even when I'm hanging out on ice tools with both my hands above my head. I like the Ascentionist because it is a lighter weight softshell and layers better for me than other heavier softshells (like the Gamma MX).

+1 for Mountain Hardware.

I have had my Alchemy for 3 years and it is still my first choice for brisk trad. Fully articulated, and sized to fit "the hardened alpinist physique". Haha I just love that line. Don't climb chimneys in it and wash and re-treat often (goes for any softshell you choose)

If you have the money I suggest the Westomb Skeena Hoody - Event paneling on hood, shoulders, and front torso is entirely windproof and almost waterproof (seams not taped) and then has schoeller dryskin down the side panels, under the arms, and on the back. The inside is mapped with merino wool. It's lighter than the Gamma MX hoody, but blocks wind better than powershield.

Looks like Patagonia has replaced the Winter Guide (which had their "regular" fit) with the Speed Ascent (which has their "slim" fit same as the Ascentionist) so the sizing may be fixed now for athletic types.

Yea slim fit stuff from Patagucci is the key for me. I'm usually a small (5'11", 155lbs, biker legs) in their base layers and in the Ascensionist.

I have one of the Wild Things Guide Jackets. I guess it's considered a hybrid because it has event hard shell on the shoulders and hood. I fricken love this coat, and to make it even better it's made right here in New Hampshire, which is sweet cause I love buying local. I think it goes for $250 retail. It's on the warmer side for a soft shell, fairly thick with a thin fleece lining.
wildthingsgear.com/legacy/?…

Anybody know anything about the Mtn Hardware Dragon jacket? I'm looking for a new softshell too.