Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Block Tower
|
Bungi Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Dance of Chance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Desperado T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Hurt Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Mister Mantle T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Queer Bait T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Sex Dwarf T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Wrist Never Sleeps T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Smith and Peter Hubbel 6/82 |
| Page Views: | 2,678 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Dana Prosser on Feb 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Queer Bait is a very enjoyable, multi-pitch rock climb located on the Block Tower. The difficulties can be minimized by aiding through crux on good bolts making this route 5.10-A0.
P1- Start up left side of flake below obvious roof. After about 10 feet, head right, place a good cam in crack and face climb right, and up to good bolt, a few more face moves takes you to wide crack that gets smaller as you ascend 5.9+/5.10a (180 feet to fixed anchor).
P2- This short pitch climbs double crack system to next good ledge 5.7 (50 feet).
P3. This is where the fun begins! Grunt (or use good technique) up wide crack in corner. You decide if left side in or right side in works better (I personally decided to donate skin on each side of my body equally) to next good ledge. 5.9++ (70 feet).
P4 Climb slightly tricky, thin moves to small roof. Exit left side of roof, and continue up sweet thin hands crack to bolts. Climb well bolted, short 5.11 crux or be a wanker and pull through (like my partner did-you suck! j/k) to another good belay ledge. 5.11c or 5.10-A0 (100 feet).
P5- Short crack pitch to top of wall (head right to another crack when rock quality deteriorates) 5.10a (50 feet).
Overall, this route had interesting climbing, excellent belay stances, all day sun, and a little OW climbing to keep the riff-raff away- what more can you ask for? Get out and climb it!
P1- Start up left side of flake below obvious roof. After about 10 feet, head right, place a good cam in crack and face climb right, and up to good bolt, a few more face moves takes you to wide crack that gets smaller as you ascend 5.9+/5.10a (180 feet to fixed anchor).
P2- This short pitch climbs double crack system to next good ledge 5.7 (50 feet).
P3. This is where the fun begins! Grunt (or use good technique) up wide crack in corner. You decide if left side in or right side in works better (I personally decided to donate skin on each side of my body equally) to next good ledge. 5.9++ (70 feet).
P4 Climb slightly tricky, thin moves to small roof. Exit left side of roof, and continue up sweet thin hands crack to bolts. Climb well bolted, short 5.11 crux or be a wanker and pull through (like my partner did-you suck! j/k) to another good belay ledge. 5.11c or 5.10-A0 (100 feet).
P5- Short crack pitch to top of wall (head right to another crack when rock quality deteriorates) 5.10a (50 feet).
Overall, this route had interesting climbing, excellent belay stances, all day sun, and a little OW climbing to keep the riff-raff away- what more can you ask for? Get out and climb it!
Location
Route is located to the west of Cynical Pinnacle. Take standard approach to Cynical, but head west before encountering first cliff band. Bushwack up and left until you reach right side of block tower. The route starts right of obvious chimney system that splits the face.
Protection
Single cams in small sizes up to #0.4 Camalot. Doubles #0.5 - #3 Camalot, with 1x #4 Friend and 1 x #6 Camalot optional but helpful and recommended for wide sections. The only fixed anchor we encountered was on the first pitch. There were no other fixed anchors on climb, making it best to walk off east toward Cynical Pinnacle (easy 20 minute downclimb).
Photos
8 Comments