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thoughts on the new rumney guide book...

Original Post
Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,335

so at long last it has arrived... the rumney book is out and we can no longer talk at length about the roomers and hear-say about when it will come out... now its time to talk about the book it self... many things have been added, changed, upgraded, downgraded and more... how do you feel about the new routes, areas, names, grades etc...

Over all i love the new book... basically its just like the old one but with more routes which is nice... really i think ward did a great job and if you happen upon this thread ward, thank you for all your work...

im psyched to check out the new 2 cliffs, and really psyched to get on some of the newly developed routes on the assorted NW crags ...

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,056

I'm not a fan of the slash grades myself. I feel as though a commitment should be made to either a higher or lower grade.

Anyway, it's nice to see all of the new stuff in the guide. I am also happy to see Thin Man upgraded to 13b. Not sure if Predator deserved the big downgrade (half-downgrade, actually) to 13a/b.

Pal Pocsi · · Budapest, Hungary · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 1,205

Man, I can't wait to get a copy of the book the next time I get back up to Rumney. If it's as good as the old one, I'll be thrilled. I've been borrowing a friend's copy for about a year now :-)

Tom Bath · · Kent, Wa · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 2,380

Mt only complaint is that there are too many pics of that Hansche guy ;)

Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,335

yeah that is weird that so many routes got noncommittal grades...

Blues for Mowgli- 12d... nice that thing is hard...
Big Kahuna- half upgrade lame... or maybe im just bummed cause i havnt sent yet...
Know Ethics- 11a? with the right beta it feels mid 5.10...
Orangahang- 12a that thing is soooo hard for me it took me more tries than any 5.12c or 5.12d ive done and it got the half down grade...
Dirtigo- 5.2 making us work for the 5.3 grade these days i guess haha...

i could go on but ill save it :)

Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,335
Tom Bath wrote:Mt only complaint is that there are too many pics of that Hansche guy ;)
you must not have gotten your copy yet tom, haha... no pics of me but i did manage to squeek in a few new routes :)
Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365
Tom Bath wrote:Mt only complaint is that there are too many pics of that Hansche guy ;)
his ugly mug is already all over the interwebs.. i don't need to see that in a book too ;)

(put in my order this week.. can't wait)
E thatcher · · Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 915

I know it's fairly insignificant, but I was surprised that Egg McMeadows got upgraded to a 5.10. Feels easier then most of my favorite 5.9's. I'm assuming its because it's harder to On-sight then do again after a zillian laps.

Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505

I think the guidebook looks great, however I do wish that it had a header or footer on each page stating the cliff/area name, approach time, sun time, and overall wetness of the area.

Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365
E thatcher wrote:I know it's fairly insignificant, but I was surprised that Egg McMeadows got upgraded to a 5.10. Feels easier then most of my favorite 5.9's. I'm assuming its because it's harder to On-sight then do again after a zillian laps.
even easier than that with the annual ticking of the hidden hold
Tparis · · Pottersville,New York · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 270
E thatcher wrote:I know it's fairly insignificant, but I was surprised that Egg McMeadows got upgraded to a 5.10. Feels easier then most of my favorite 5.9's. I'm assuming its because it's harder to On-sight then do again after a zillian laps.
Yes! I can now climb 5.10!!!!!
Jeffrey LeCours · · New Hampshire · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,381

I think the guidebook looks great. I enjoyed flipping through and seeing photos of friends or taken by friends. I would have liked to see a map for the summit cliff and monolith... but I'm happy enough to get a listing of the new development that's been done at them. As I wasn't fortunate enough to own a copy of the previous guidebook, I enjoyed reading the brief history of Rumney and the descriptions of a lot of routes I never noticed on MP (e.g., The Opportunist @ Orange Crush). :)

Thanks and cheers Ward! Much appreciated!

MattWallace · · Center Harbor, NH · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 8,752

I agree the half grades are a little weird, but the book is great, i especially like knowing all the NW cliffs full info now. Thanks Ward

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,056
Ladd Raine wrote:I think the guidebook looks great, however I do wish that it had a header or footer on each page stating the...overall wetness of the area.
That would be "very high" wetness, for all crags.
eric larson · · aurora, co · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 50
Ladd Raine wrote:, and overall wetness of the area.
Its New England.. I think overall, it's a moot point...

that being said i can't wait to come back to NE and climb rumney again with a guidebook!
MattWallace · · Center Harbor, NH · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 8,752

To me Egg McMeadows was a 10 because I have always though it to be harder than Masterpiece...I never know it was originally a 10

Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,335

i was never a big fan of the route, but Mr.Popular got the upgrade to 5.10a which i thought made sense seeing as the crux move feels harder than some 5.11s at rumney...

Also i was surprised that obi-won lost its "+" i thought that would go up to 5.10a due to the one hard move... maybe in the spirit of split grades it should have gone to 5.9/9+/10a, haha...

Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365

I've always found Obi won to be easier than Yoda so i'm Ok with that one. I haven't done Egg Mcmeadows recently enough to compare it to masterpiece.. they are 2 totally different types of climbing so that's not really fair. Egg McMeadows is easier than Lonesome Dove though

how long do books take to get from NH to RI gahh *twiddles thumbs*

Christopher Gagne · · Dover · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,112
Ladd Raine wrote:I think the guidebook looks great, however I do wish that it had a header or footer on each page stating the cliff/area name, approach time, sun time, and overall wetness of the area.
I would have to agree it seems that all the new Guide books, I've seen, for set areas like Rumney have this feature. The Red River gorge has it along with Boston Rock, which covers most of the State of Mass, Maybe next time around...

All in all I'm pleased with the work that Ward and the other cats did on the new guide book.
DB Cee · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined May 2007 · Points: 146
christohper wrote: I would have to agree it seems that all the new Guide books, I've seen, for set areas like Rumney have this feature. The Red River gorge has it along with Boston Rock, which covers most of the State of Mass, Maybe next time around... All in all I'm pleased with the work that Ward and the other cats did on the new guide book.
The Red has it b/c there are dry and wet cliffs there. Rumney has no dry and wet cliffs. He tells you if a route stays dry in the rain...
at least in the first guidebook he did.
Christopher Gagne · · Dover · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,112
Blake Cash wrote: The Red has it b/c there are dry and wet cliffs there. Rumney has no dry and wet cliffs. He tells you if a route stays dry in the rain... at least in the first guidebook he did.
True Blake but at the same time the other info would be good for people that are new to the area and just general usage by old hats...
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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